"Bendu offers a technical, single-pitch sport climb at Monokini with a challenging mix of solid rock and precarious holds. This route demands cautious movement and keen judgment, rewarding climbers who respect its unsettled character and rugged surroundings."
Bendu presents a raw and unforgiving challenge within the Monokini sector of Bas-Saint-Laurent, Quebec. This single-pitch sport route, rated 5.10d PG13, is an uneven mosaic of solid rock punctuated by cautionary zones where loose holds and moss demand heightened respect. Arriving at the base, you immediately notice a massive hold hanging perilously above the first bolt—an ominous element that advises climbers to tread lightly and avoid putting weight on it entirely. From the ground up to the fourth bolt, the rock generally holds firm, providing a trustworthy but technical climb. However, once you pass bolt four, the route’s routefinding becomes complicated. Climbers face a choice between two uneasy passages: surmount the bulge via a demanding, technical rightward traverse on dirty, loose rock or skirt the bulge from below, navigating through a gully cracked with fragile stone.
Pushing beyond the fifth bolt offers a brief reprieve as the climbing smooths out, but the stone remains riddled with sketchy sections, cautioning steady, deliberate movement. The reputed roadblock looms at the eighth bolt, where lichen blankets the rock and the path forward blurs into ambiguous terrain, leaving many wondering if the route ever truly finishes. The experience suggests that the climb demands more than pure physical skill—it requires acute attention to detail, patience, and solid judgment on protection and movement.
Given the route conditions, Bendu is not suitable for the casual climber. The presence of loose rock and mossy holds increases the technical difficulty beyond the grade’s baseline. Gear placements are straightforward with eight bolts, but the protection must be approached with mindfulness as rope drag has been noted, especially around the third bolt where a sling is advisable.
Ideal timing to tackle Bendu is during dry summer months after thorough cleaning, though the route remains a tentative project rather than a completed climb. The surrounding Monokini area offers spectacular views of Quebec’s rugged terrain, with the crisp air carrying the steady hum of the nearby St. Lawrence River. Climbers who decide to explore Bendu should prepare for uneven footing on the approach and pay close attention to environmental conditions, especially lingering moisture that can exacerbate slipperiness on lichen-covered sections.
The descent is typically performed by lowering off the eighth bolt, with an extra carabiner backup on the seventh bolt to safeguard the rappel. The approach demands a solid knowledge of the local rock and a willingness to engage with a route that borders on the unknown. Bendu challenges climbers to move beyond comfort zones and wrestle with nature’s unpredictability, embodying a climbing experience that is as much about caution as it is about grit and determination.
Significant loose rock and unstable holds pose a hazard—especially the first pitch with a large uncertain hold over the belayer. Moss and lichen reduce friction on many holds, increasing slip risk. Wear a helmet, double-check protection, and avoid climbing after rain or heavy moisture.
Avoid putting weight on the large hold above bolt one—it could break loose.
Use a sling on bolt three to manage rope drag during traverses.
Approach with waterproof or sturdy footwear due to slippery lichen on the upper pitches.
Lower off the eighth bolt with backup on the seventh bolt for safe descent.
Eight fixed bolts protect the route. A sling on the third bolt helps reduce rope drag, especially on traverses. Wear a helmet due to loose rock hazards, including a large hold suspended above the first bolt.
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