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Ben Scabbyface: A Raw Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad gear needed
uneven rock
desert exposure
single pitch
quiet route
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ben Scabbyface
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ben Scabbyface offers a raw and gritty trad climb on a rarely visited buttress in Joshua Tree National Park. With uneven rock quality and sparse protection, it challenges climbers seeking a straightforward but unpolished desert climb off the crowded routes."

Ben Scabbyface: A Raw Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Ben Scabbyface is an unpolished trad climb on the rugged buttress just right of Weo in Joshua Tree National Park. This 80-foot route offers a gritty, straightforward ascent that beckons climbers seeking a low-key, somewhat raw experience off the beaten path. The quality of the rock is famously uneven, with patches that demand caution and clear-headed movement rather than flashy technique. Protection can be unreliable—expect to lean on your trad rack throughout, reserving quickdraws for a fixed pin and a single bolt near the top. Despite its modest popularity and a rating that includes a PG13 caution, this climb carries a quiet draw for adventurers who appreciate a challenge unbuffed by the usual polished handholds and features.

Approaching the climb, you’ll find a short yet exposed approach across Joshua Tree’s cracked desert ground, where the sun can be intense and shade scarce. The rock’s weathered faces tell stories of the desert’s persistent wind and sun, with holds that test your steady hand and foot placement. The single pitch rises with a steady rhythm—nothing overly technical but requiring commitment, especially on less-than-perfect rock sections. The belayer's position at the base offers a wide view across this iconic desert landscape, grounding the climb in its unique environment.

Ben Scabbyface is not scripted for speed or ease; it invites patience and respect for the rawness beneath your fingers. Bring a solid trad rack, focusing on smaller cams for tricky placements hidden in the rock’s cracks. Quickdraws come in handy near the top, where a fixed pin and bolt offer some reassurance through a moderate crux. The anchor is trad-based, requiring climbers to trust their gear placements. While this route doesn’t sparkle in every way, it gives a rare taste of Joshua Tree’s less-tamed side and a chance to climb with space and quiet.

Given its route features and rock condition, this climb appeals to those who look beyond star ratings and polished lines, drawn instead to climbing that feels genuine and grounded in its environment. The desert air carries a steady stillness punctuated only by the whisper of wind brushing over rough stone. Prepare for fewer crowds and bring ample water; the exposure to sun means sweat and dehydration can arrive quickly. Early morning ascents reward climbers with cooler temperatures and clearer air.

Always scout the top section carefully: protection there is sparse, demanding confidence and steady nerves. And despite its rawness, Ben Scabbyface offers a unique moment of solitude within the busier Joshua Tree zones. This route’s sparse popularity might just be its greatest asset for those seeking a quietly challenging trad experience in one of California's most iconic climbing landscapes.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is inconsistent with fragile sections near the top; placing protection requires care. Fixed gear exists but is limited to a pin and one bolt, so double-check placements and avoid dynamic falls in these spots.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid intense midday sun and scorching rock.

Hydration is critical—carry more water than usual for this desert climb.

Scout the upper section carefully—protection is sparse and demands confidence.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging to navigate uneven rock features safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating reflects more than technical difficulty—rock quality and protection scarcity bump the mental challenge. While the moves are straightforward compared to polished Joshua Tree sport climbs, expect a sustained commitment to cautious gear placements. Climbers familiar with local 5.8 traditions will find this climb a bit less forgiving than typical routes in the area.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack is essential, emphasizing smaller cams for tricky crack placements. Some quickdraws come in handy for clipping the fixed pin and single bolt near the top. The route finishes at a trad anchor.

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Tags

trad gear needed
uneven rock
desert exposure
single pitch
quiet route