HomeClimbingBeeline Crack

Beeline Crack: A Direct Trad Challenge on Beeline Slab

Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad gear
crack climbing
single pitch
moderate dirt
ring anchors
5.9
Lake Tahoe
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Beeline Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Beeline Crack throws down a direct, gripping trad challenge that starts strong and then opens into a dirt-flecked crack requiring solid protection skills. Its brief length conceals nuanced demands, making it perfect for climbers seeking focused, technical movement near Lake Tahoe."

Beeline Crack: A Direct Trad Challenge on Beeline Slab

Rising sharply from the grateful earth at Beeline Slab, Beeline Crack offers an intense and immediate introduction to trad climbing near the vibrant I-80 corridor of Lake Tahoe, California. This single-pitch route tests your ability to read the rock and manage gear right from the first move. The crux is unyielding, demanding commitment and precise footwork; those who cheat by stepping on the low-hanging tree sidestep the intended difficulty. Surpassing this initial obstacle, the climb eases into a more moderate 5.4 difficulty, yet the challenge persists in the form of loosened debris and a widening crack that requires a thoughtful selection of protection. Two cams sized around 3.5 inches become essential here, snugging into the shallow fissure to secure your ascent.

This route commands respect — it’s straightforward in length at 85 feet, but the quality of movement and protection placements make it far from a casual climb. The vertical line follows a clean, uninterrupted crack that invites you straight up, compelling focus on balance and body positioning. Beyond the climbing difficulty, the surroundings contribute quiet companionship; the slab and crack interact with the elements, offering climbs painted in dappled shadows and intermittent sun.

Protection on Beeline Crack leans heavily on trust in your cams, with necessary sizes ranging from 1 to 3.5 inches. The fixed ring anchors provide a reliable endpoint left of where the crack fades, marking your successful summit. The rock surface bears signs of its less-traveled path — a thin layer of dirt reminding you this spot invites adventure over perfection.

Approach is pragmatic: a short hike through modest terrain from the Beeline Slab access, located near Indian Springs. The area’s latitude of 39.326 and longitude of -120.5643 place it firmly in the mixed landscapes of northern California’s climbing hotspots, close enough to urban centers for convenience, yet framed by natural quiet.

For climbers ready to engage fully, Beeline Crack challenges and rewards with an uncomplicated route that demands gear savvy and mental grit. The brief but potent climb leaves room to savor the immediate outdoor setting, with the I-80 corridor adding a touch of civilization's echo. Whether planning your first trad climb or adding variety to your Lake Tahoe itinerary, Beeline Crack offers a concise but meaningful encounter with exposed crack climbing.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing through the upper section where loosened dirt and small rock fragments can cause slipping or unreliable gear placements. The fixed ring anchors are solid, but lower protection requires careful placement and double-checking before the crux.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Avoid taking advantage of the tree at the start; it lowers the rating and cheats the crux.

Bring doubles in small to medium cams and a couple of 3.5-inch cams for the upper crack.

Expect some loose dirt and debris on the upper section; clean gear placements carefully.

Plan to use the ring anchors on your left when the crack fades for a secure top-out.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 climb features a crux right at the start that demands precise technique and confidence in small holds. The grade feels true to standard if you avoid the tree shortcut. Past the crux, the route settles into easier but dirtier 5.4 terrain, which can subtly increase the runout feel. Compared to other local Lake Tahoe cracks, Beeline Crack offers a brief but focused challenge without extended sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Carry cams in sizes 1 to 2.5 inches with at least two 3.5-inch cams for the widening upper crack. The protection relies on thoughtful placements rather than fixed gear except for ring anchors at the top left.

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Tags

trad gear
crack climbing
single pitch
moderate dirt
ring anchors
5.9
Lake Tahoe