HomeClimbingBecky's Buttress

Becky's Buttress: A Classic Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Joshua Tree, California United States
face climb
trad
single pitch
bulge crux
horizontal crack
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Becky's Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Becky's Buttress offers an accessible yet engaging 60-foot trad climb in Joshua Tree National Park. Tackle a crux bulge and a distinctive horizontal crack while enjoying straightforward approach and reliable protection."

Becky's Buttress: A Classic Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Becky's Buttress stands as a modest yet engaging climb tucked into the rugged contours of Joshua Tree National Park. Located near the Belle Campground Area, this single-pitch route stretches 60 feet of textured face climbing, offering a straightforward but rewarding experience for anyone with a solid 5.9 Trad background. Approaching from the right flank of the buttress just beyond the well-known Road Dogs route, climbers encounter a crack system and bolts strategically placed to assist on tricky sections, especially the bulging crux that demands both finesse and careful gear placement. The route’s horizontal crack near the top provides a natural resting point after the mid-route challenge, letting you gather strength before moving to the anchor.

The rock’s coarse surface invites confident footwork, and the placement of four half-inch bolts complements traditional protection, which must include gear ranging from small cams to a 2-inch cam for the horizontal. This blend ensures solid security but also calls on the climber's ability to read the rock and manage drag effectively. The crux sits just beyond the third bolt—a bulge that pushes climbers to commit to delicate moves while leveraging a longer runner clipped below to ease the tension on the rope. Visual and tactile attention to the horizontal crack on the upper section rewards the patient climber with a brief breather amid the rhythm of steady face holds and subtle edges.

Beyond the climb itself, the surrounding landscape imposes its quiet presence: the desert air carries the warmth of Joshua Tree’s sun-dappled terrain, punctuated by the occasional whisper of wind brushing past twisted shrubs. The approach is short and direct, making it a perfect half-day outing for those looking to sharpen their trad skills without committing to a long haul. Timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon allows you to benefit from the cooler temperatures and softer light, which enhances safety and comfort on rock that retains the heat of the day.

Four bolts outline the key protection points while tailored cams secure the horizontal and anchor, making preparation essential. Bring a rack with a solid range of small to medium cams, runners for extended clips to reduce rope drag, and a helmet for added safety. Though the route is well-protected, the rock’s texture and the crux’s physicality ensure that those approaching with respect will gain a meaningful session on the rock. Additional local tips emphasize water, sun protection, and timing for avoiding the park’s busiest hours.

Becky’s Buttress offers a balanced experience where approachability meets a touch of technical challenge. The climb encourages mindfulness of gear choice and movement precision, all set against the striking backdrop of one of California’s most iconic climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Caution is advised due to the bulge area where rope drag can stress protection if runners are not properly extended. The rock is solid but occasionally abrasive, so reliable gear placements and helmet use are crucial. Be mindful of sun exposure—temperatures can spike quickly on the buttress’s face.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday heat on the exposed rock face.

Pack a helmet and bring a rack with small to medium cams for complete protection.

Use longer runners clipped to the second bolt to reduce rope drag on the bulge.

Hydrate well and wear sun protection—shade is limited during midday.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is consistent with the moves required, especially with the bulge crux that adds a distinct technical challenge. This climb feels true to grade with a short, powerful sequence rather than sustained difficulty. Compared to nearby routes like Road Dogs, Becky's Buttress leans on well-placed bolts to help manage protection without sacrificing the trad feel.

Gear Requirements

Four half-inch bolts protect key sections, supplemented by traditional gear up to 2-inch cams needed for horizontal cracks and anchors. Bring runners to extend gear placements, especially to ease drag over the bulge crux.

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Tags

face climb
trad
single pitch
bulge crux
horizontal crack
desert climbing
Joshua Tree