"Bear Hug offers a hands-on introduction to Lover's Leap’s rugged granite with two pitches of crack climbing that combine straightforward climbing with a memorable move around a downward horn. This trad route suits climbers looking for a balanced challenge near Lake Tahoe’s scenic beauty."
Bear Hug stands as a compelling two-pitch traditional climb tucked into the Lower Buttress of Lover's Leap, near the Highway 50 Corridor in California’s Lake Tahoe region. This route offers around 250 feet of engaging climbing that challenges with its straightforward yet varied crack systems framed by the rugged Sierra granite. From the moment you step onto the first pitch, you are drawn into a route that demands attention, skill, and a bit of boldness.
The approach to Bear Hug places you amidst the distinctive granite features that make Lover’s Leap a standout destination. The first pitch follows a crack system that shares its starting line with the nearby For Real Crack, located just left of a moss-covered gully that adds an earthy texture to the scene. The crack initially pulls you upward before you carefully move right to cross For Real Crack and then into another crack system sculpted beneath a small roof. This section demands finesse as you maneuver around a prominent downward-pointing horn—your namesake “bear hug”—which requires a strong close-quarters move that feels like embracing the rock itself.
Just before surmounting the roof, a shift right leads into a comfortable crack perfect for establishing a secure belay station, the ideal midway point to rest and prepare. Pitch two invites you upward onto a dike-filled slab where protection runs scarce but the moves are straightforward, passing an overhang on the left. This final stretch rises through a clean gully with multiple belay options near the top, giving climbers flexibility in managing their rappel or walk-off.
The quality of the granite here is solid with typical Sierra friction, making careful footwear and deliberate movement essential. Protection runs up to 3 inches, so a full rack with cams tailored to that size range is necessary for a safe ascent. Expect the placement opportunities to test your gear judgment especially on the varying crack widths and the slab above.
For those planning a day out at Bear Hug, early season spring through late fall is ideal. The route faces favorable light and typically dries quickly after rain, though the mossy areas near the approach gully require caution when wet. Early morning starts help avoid afternoon sun exposure and sustain better friction on the slab sections.
Located just beyond the bustle of Highway 50, Lover’s Leap offers both accessibility and a wilderness feel. The Lower Buttress remains quieter than other sectors but still rewards with sweeping views over Lake Tahoe’s blue expanse and surrounding pines. After climbing, descending involves a careful rappel from the top anchors or a walk-off down climber’s trail, with attention needed on loose rock and occasional slippery patches.
Whether you are stepping up to Bear Hug as your first trad route or adding it to a growing list, it combines methodical crack climbing with satisfying exposure and classic Sierra granite texture. The route is a worthy pick for climbers looking for a route that balances moderate technical demands with genuine granite adventure, all within reach of Tahoe’s outdoor playground.
Watch for moss and dampness near the approach gully and lower cracks after rainfall—the rock can feel slick. The roof section’s downward horn requires controlled movement to avoid swing falls. Rappels from the top demand careful attention to anchor quality and loose rock along the descent trail.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the slab pitch.
Check the mossy gully conditions after rain as it can be slippery.
Bring a full rack up to 3 inches to protect all crack variations.
Consider parking near Highway 50 and following well-marked trails to the Lower Buttress approach.
Standard trad rack to 3 inches is essential. The first pitch offers solid crack placements but be ready for some larger cams to protect around the roof and bear hug section. The second pitch includes slab climbing with limited pro but several solid spots near the overhang.
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