HomeClimbingBear Fingers

Bear Fingers at Mount St. Helena

Calistoga, California United States
finger crack
thin crack
bulge
trad gear
single pitch
moderate approach
cool shade
Wine Country
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bear Fingers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bear Fingers presents a demanding single-pitch trad climb with a narrow finger crack carving its way up Mount St. Helena’s edge. Combining delicate gear placements and a bulging diagonal crack, this route offers a precise challenge for climbers seeking technical finesse in California’s Wine Country."

Bear Fingers at Mount St. Helena

Bear Fingers offers a compelling taste of traditional climbing on the rugged face of Mount St. Helena, carved deep within California's iconic Wine Country. This single-pitch, 55-foot climb challenges you with a slender finger crack that demands finesse, finger strength, and a steady mindset. Starting at the left edge of the cliff, the route invites you to clip two bolts shared with the adjacent Kidnapped/Jekyll and Hyde climbs before moving into a diagonal ascent up a narrow, thin hand crack. The crack curves leftward and forces a delicate bulge negotiation that tests your ability to read the rock’s texture and seize each hold with precision.

The environment surrounding Bear Fingers is unassuming yet quietly powerful. The rocky wall itself is shaded for much of the day, which helps maintain crisp, cool conditions even through warmer months, making it an ideal choice during California’s dry spring and early fall seasons. From the base, the air carries faint vineyard scents and the occasional breeze rustling through the sparse chaparral above. As you climb, the rock hums softly under pressure—solid and reliable despite the challenge of its thin diagonal features.

Protection is straightforward but requires thoughtful placements. With a few cams in the 1 to 1.5-inch range plus the initial bolts, you’ll want to bring a light rack to comfortably secure yourself without crowding the crack. While the route’s bolts provide some security, it’s primarily a gear-on-gear climb, making your placements critical, especially on the bulge section where footwork can falter and the holds grow slender. The anchor, established in 2003 by a seasoned local climber, remains sound but expect a traditional setup that rewards experience.

Accessing Bear Fingers demands a modest hike through Mount St. Helena’s foothills, part of the greater San Francisco Bay Area’s outdoor landscape. The approach trail weaves through scrub and loose rock patches, typically taking less than 20 minutes from the nearest parking area. Being aware of the heat is crucial during summer months, as shade is limited during the approach. Bringing adequate water and sturdy footwear will ease your trek and keep you focused on the climb ahead.

For climbers eyeing a mix of finger crack technique and traditional protection management, Bear Fingers delivers with its accessible yet rewarding profile. It offers a compact adventure that slices through the heart of an often-overlooked climbing zone, balancing the rawness of trad climbing with the region’s serene beauty. Whether you’re refreshing thin crack skills or simply craving a straightforward trad challenge with a dash of local history, this climb opens a meaningful connection to the granite that defines the landscape.

Remember to time your climb to avoid the strongest afternoon sun, and keep your gear tidy to move efficiently through the tricky bulge. With a respectful approach, the rock will support you as you thread your fingers into the crack’s tight embrace and push toward the chains that seal the route. Bear Fingers is a test not just of strength but of concentration and control — the kind of climb that leaves a quiet reward lingering after the last clip is made.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the approach and footholds on the bulge section. Protection placements require precision—avoid relying solely on bolts beyond the first two clips. The descent relies on a traditional anchor; inspect for wear before rappling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail takes about 20 minutes through rocky and sparsely shaded terrain—wear sturdy shoes and carry water.

Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid heat; the wall stays mostly shaded until mid-morning.

Keep gear organized to tackle the bulge smoothly; smaller cams are essential for secure placements.

Anchor established in 2003 is solid but traditional—double check your setup for a safe top-out.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true to form with a stiff crux at the bulge where holds narrow and body tension is crucial. The initial bolt succession eases the start, but the diagonal finger crack offers sustained technical climbing that will test climbers comfortable on moderate thin cracks. Compared to other San Francisco Bay area climbs, Bear Fingers stands out for its balance of protection and technique without overwhelming length.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams sized 1" to 1.5" to protect the thin, diagonal finger crack sections. The route shares the first two bolts with neighboring Kidnapped/Jekyll and Hyde before branching off—these bolts add security but rely mainly on your gear placements along the crack and bulge.

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Tags

finger crack
thin crack
bulge
trad gear
single pitch
moderate approach
cool shade
Wine Country