HomeClimbingBean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito

Bean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito

San Diego, California United States
trad
single pitch
technical moves
slab
old bolt
San Diego climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bean Dip serves as an engaging variation to the classic Frito Bandito climb, offering precise technical moves and a subtle but sharp slab finish. This single-pitch trad route in Stonewall Peak’s Lower Tier is ideal for climbers seeking a focused challenge with solid gear options and rewarding views."

Bean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito

Bean Dip offers a demanding but rewarding alternative to the popular Frito Bandito route, located in the rugged Lower Tier of Stonewall Peak, North San Diego County. This single-pitch trad climb invites you to engage with its sharp features and subtle holds, beginning from the left edge of a prominent triangular dark rock formation. As you traverse left onto Frito Bandito, the line veers upward, challenging climbers to mantel a distinctive horn—a move that demands both balance and confidence—before reaching an aged bolt standing as a solitary marker on the wall. The route continues with delicate, thin movements that ease onto a moderately angled slab, where friction and footwork take precedence before merging back onto the established Frito Bandito path.

This climb’s setting on the Lower Tier places you within an exposed pocket of granite, where the afternoon sun warms the rock, but early morning or late afternoon sessions offer pleasant coolness. The approach is straightforward, but the quality of rock requires attention, especially around the horn and slab sections where holds can feel sparse and technical. Protection involves placing traditional gear with care alongside trust in an old fixed bolt, making a solid rack of cams and small nuts essential. Climbers should be prepared for a brief but intense effort, with the route’s 5.9 grade reflecting a measured challenge that’s accessible to those comfortable with technical moves on gear.

Stonewall Peak’s Lower Tier is part of a wider climbing area known for its quiet, scenic escapes and varied terrain. The remote setting rewards visitors with uninterrupted views across northern San Diego’s wild, sun-dappled hillsides. Whether you’re topping out on the slab or admiring the unique shapes of the dark rock around you, this route allows for an intimate connection to the rock’s natural character.

Plan your outing with timing in mind—avoiding the heat of midday to protect grip and endurance—and come equipped with sturdy shoes, a solid rack of traditional gear, and a mindset ready for precise movement and focus. Approaching the climb involves a short hike with some light scrambling, adding to the sense of adventure before you even step onto the rock.

The descent allows for a walk-off in easy terrain, but always watch for loose scree and maintain stable footing on the approach trail. Bean Dip is a route that sharpens your technique and rewards your mental game, providing a concise but rich experience that fits perfectly into a day of exploring Stonewall’s enduring crags.

Climber Safety

The aged bolt should be approached with caution—rely primarily on your own gear placements. The slab section demands careful movement; avoid overreaching and double-check foot contact. Also, be mindful of loose rock on the approach trail.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Aim to climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat and improve grip.

Bring a rack geared toward small and medium-sized cams for tricky placements near the horn and slab.

Wear shoes with a precise, sticky sole to master thin foot holds on the slab sections.

Approach via the well-marked trail leading to the Lower Tier, allowing about 20 minutes from the parking area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair given the route’s thin moves on slab and mantel feature. While not overwhelmingly physical, the technical nature of the moves and the need for precise gear placements lift the challenge above a straightforward climb. Compared to nearby routes of similar grade, Bean Dip calls for slightly more finesse and deliberate footwork.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear combined with an old fixed bolt provides adequate protection. A rack with small to medium cams and nuts is recommended for secure placements.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
technical moves
slab
old bolt
San Diego climbing