"BC Winger is a lively single-pitch crack climb on Castlewood Canyon’s Five and Dime Wall. It combines solid jams on steep stone with straightforward protection options, making it a prime choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a sunny, quiet setting."
At the heart of Castlewood Canyon State Park, the BC Winger route offers an approachable yet rewarding crack climb that beckons climbers eager for hands-on engagement with Colorado’s rugged stone. Situated on the Five and Dime Wall, this modest single-pitch route balances straightforward technique with a handful of wide jams that demand attention and care. The climb rises on a steep section where the crack opens just enough to challenge your rack choices, especially at its broadest point, which swallows protection pieces up to 3 inches wide. The rock texture grips well, lending confidence as you work upward and feel the pulse of the wall through your fingertips.
Five and Dime Wall is a quiet stretch within Denver South’s Castlewood Canyon, a pocket of climbing that rewards those looking for a more intimate experience away from Colorado’s busier crags. The climb’s brevity doesn’t limit its appeal. Instead, it focuses the effort and leaves climbers wanting more, with a solid layback on edges and jams that reward practiced footwork and gear placement. The single bolt at the top provides a reassuring anchor, making it accessible for top-rope setups or a cautious trad ascent. This versatility is a key draw, especially for climbers honing crack skills who seek manageable exposure without the stress of lengthy routes.
The approach to BC Winger is straightforward—just a short walk from the trailhead, through open sagebrush and scrub oak, the terrain is sparse but scenic. The route’s south-facing wall soaks up the sun, making it an ideal pick for a crisp spring morning or a fall afternoon when shoulder seasons bring comfortable temps and fewer crowds. Hydration is key here; the dry surroundings don’t offer much natural shade, so bring plenty of water and a good hat to protect from the Colorado sun.
Gear your rack with cams ranging from small fingers for the upper thinner sections to robust pieces for the crack’s widest segments. Large nuts can supplement placements where cams feel marginal. While the climb is short and protected, care on placements is crucial to avoid runouts between the gear, especially if choosing to go trad. A solid pair of climbing shoes with sticky rubber will help you maximize smears and jams, and a helmet is recommended given loose rock potential typical of this canyon environment.
In all, BC Winger invites climbers who appreciate hands-on crack climbing with a manageable challenge. It doesn’t demand a lofty endurance test but rather a focus on gear technique and movement nuance. Whether you’re warming up your crack skills or picking a quick climb to fit a half-day trip, this route stands as one of the cleaner, more user-friendly choices in Castlewood Canyon. Enjoy the tactile feedback of Colorado’s sandstone, celebrate the rhythm of jams and laybacks, and savor the peaceful backdrop of a lesser-traveled crag in the Denver South area.
Loose rock is occasional around the approach and near the belay station; a helmet is strongly advised. Take extra care placing pro in the widest crack section, as poorly fitted gear could lead to longer falls. The single bolt anchor is secure, but always inspect the hardware before climbing.
Arrive early to enjoy the morning sun on the south-facing wall.
Wear a wide-brimmed hat; minimal shade on approach and wall.
Carry plenty of water; the terrain is dry and exposed.
Double-check gear placements in the wider crack section for security.
Bring a rack with cams sizing from small fingers to 3-inch pieces, along with large nuts for additional placements. The climb easily top ropes from the single bolt anchor with clean extension options. Shoes with sticky rubber and a helmet are recommended.
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