"Battle of the Bulge offers a concise, technical trad challenge nestled in Yukon Territory’s Golden Canyon. This 23-foot climb features a committing bulge crux that tests steady footwork and precise gear placement in a remote northern wilderness setting."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Yukon Territory’s Golden Canyon, Battle of the Bulge stakes its claim as a sharp, single-pitch trad climb that demands both focus and finesse. The route carves a narrow crack through a dramatic dihedral, inviting climbers into a sequence where balance and tactical foot placements matter more than brute strength. The crux, a bulging roof that challenges your ability to maintain tension without leaning on the left wall, elevates the route beyond straightforward crack climbing—it’s a moment that tests both resolve and technique.
Golden Canyon’s remote wilderness offers more than just physical challenges; it provides a crisp, pristine setting where the cold air exhales against the stone, and the stillness is punctuated only by your gear’s chatter and the occasional birdcall. The approach traces a short but uneven path, requiring hikers to be mindful of loose scree underfoot, setting the stage early for the care and attention the climb demands.
This brief yet sharp 23-foot pitch requires protection placements up to 3 inches, with solid anchor points ready atop the dihedral. The gear you'll rack should reflect the fuzz and flaring of the crack—meshing cams suited for finger to hand sizes. Protection needs precision, especially near the bulge where the rock narrows, emphasizing the value of practiced gear management to build secure placements without losing momentum.
Though only 23 feet, the 5.9 rating feels earnest. The bulge crux bumps the physical and mental effort, as negotiating this overhang without dragging on the left wall pushes the climb from a modest crack towards a committing move. Compared to other Yukon trad options that lean more straightforward, Battle of the Bulge stands out as a test of body positioning and confident gear placement. It's a worthy choice for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills while savoring the quiet, wild north.
Seasonal windows for this route are tight—late spring through early fall offers the best conditions, with stable rock and manageable temperatures. Winter and early spring bring snow and ice, turning the approach hazardous and the holds slick.
After topping out, rappelling is straightforward from fixed anchors, but climbers should inspect slings and bolts regularly since exposure to the elements can degrade gear. Descending carefully avoids unnecessary wear on the rock and maintains the quality of the route for future ascents.
This climb sits within a calmer pocket of the vast Yukon climbing landscape, making it ideal for those craving compact, immersive trad challenges without venturing into extended multi-pitch wilderness expeditions. Planning your trip around hydration, crisp weather gear for northern chills, and a reliable rack will set you up for a measured, memorable encounter with Yukon’s vertical terrain.
Loose scree at the approach and exposed gear placements at the bulge require vigilance. Inspect all fixed anchors for signs of wear, especially after winter freeze-thaw cycles, to ensure safe rappels.
Approach with sturdy footwear for loose scree near the base.
Avoid leaning on the left wall during the bulge to maintain momentum.
Check anchor slings before descending for wear from northern weather.
Aim for late spring to early fall conditions to avoid ice and snow hazards.
Bring a trad rack with cams up to 3 inches to protect the dihedral crack. Fixed anchors await at the top for a safe rappel.
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