"Battle Crack offers a precise and sustained 5.9 trad climb in the San Bernardino Mountains, pushing climbers through a technical crack system just south of Big Bear Lake. With solid protection and a focused crux, this short pitch is an essential test of crack climbing skill in a classic mountain setting."
Battle Crack stands as a concise yet demanding testpiece embedded within the rugged San Bernardino Mountains, just south of Big Bear Lake. This single-pitch, 40-foot route offers a sustained 5.9 crack climb that rewards precision and patience. From the moment your hands find the onset of the crack, the rock's texture grips with an assertive character, inviting you to engage fully with the line. The main challenge pulses about ten feet off the ground, where the crack narrows and angles shift, requiring deliberate jam technique and body positioning.
The route begins by moving left of the crack before flowing upward and veering right, forcing a balance between climbing fluidity and tactical gear placements. Protection demands a thoughtful rack from micro cams around .5 inches to larger pieces topping out at 2 inches, ensuring security while navigating this technical sequence. Saving an extra pair of cams near the .3 inch size also helps build a sturdy anchor at the top, giving peace of mind before the final pull.
Situated off Forest Road 2N86 near Castle Grey Skull, the approach weaves through a pine-and-oak mixed forest, refreshing the senses with pine needles underfoot and mountain breezes that keep the rock cool even on warmer days. This short walk allows climbers ample time to mentally prepare for the direct and physical assault of the crack. For those coming from Big Bear South, the route’s proximity keeps logistics simple, facilitating a quick day out without sacrificing the remote mountain vibe.
Expect steady sun exposure on the wall during midday hours; climbing early or late in the day brings cooler conditions and more agreeable shadows. The granite here is solid, but small loose flakes near the base suggest extra caution is warranted during the approach and when setting gear. With an average star rating a bit modest, Battle Crack’s character may appeal most to climbers ready to engage with pure crack climbing at its measured intensity rather than looking for casual fun. It offers a valuable opportunity to sharpen crack technique in a geological setting that feels authentically wild and quiet.
In summary, Battle Crack delivers the kind of straightforward, hands-on trad climbing that tests skill without adding unnecessary complexity. With a focused crux, dependable protection options, and a scenic mountain backdrop, it’s a worthy stop on any trad climber’s itinerary around Big Bear Lake.
Loose flakes near the base require cautious footing during the approach and initial gear placements. The single-pitch nature means careful anchor building is key; saving cams in the .3 size range ensures a reliable top anchor.
Approach via Forest Road 2N86; the trail is straightforward but watch for loose rock near the base.
Start early to avoid climbing in strong midday sun; afternoon shade is limited.
Bring a rack focused on cams between .5 and 2 inches, plus extras in the .3 range for top anchors.
Wear shoes with good edge and crack-fitting ability for the sustained jam sequences.
Pro protection from .5 to 2 inches is essential. Bringing additional cams around .3 inches is recommended for building solid anchors.
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