"Banana Town blends pure hand and finger crack climbing with a touch of slab finesse on Baboon Crag’s granite face. This approachable 5.8 pitch offers solid protection and a firm introduction to the technical demands of the Donner Summit crags."
Banana Town offers a focused, approachable climb that combines technical hand and finger jams with a slick bolted slab section, set against the rugged backdrop of Baboon Crag near Donner Summit. This compact 45-foot route is both a test of crack climbing finesse and slab confidence, making it an ideal warmup for anyone gearing up to explore the larger walls of the I-80 Corridor. The climb begins with a sharp, engaging crack that demands precise hand placements and deliberate movement, before you transition onto a slab protected by a few well-placed bolts. The horizontal break at the heart of the route invites a brief moment to recalibrate your body, offering relief while previewing the slab’s steeper challenges.
Baboon Crag stands out for its straightforward access and clear views of Lake Tahoe’s forested ridges just beyond the ridge line. The rock itself features solid granite with occasional mineral veins, giving the climb both character and reliable friction. From the base, the cool mountain air carries the faint scent of pine and granite dust, setting a grounding atmosphere for your ascent.
For climbers stepping up to 5.8, Banana Town can be a bit of a heads-up experience—crack technique must be confident, and slab footing requires attention. Yet, its moderate length and sustained protection make it manageable without overwhelming the leader. The protection features a solid rack ranging from small fingers to a #4 cam for the horizontal, along with three bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor anchored by durable chains. This blend of traditional gear and clip-in bolts balances safety with adventure, encouraging thoughtful gear placements over pure bolt reliance.
Plan your climb mid-morning to catch the wall’s gentle sun exposure, helping dry damp rock and warm your fingers without baking you under harsh heat. The approach from Donner Summit is brief and well-marked, weaving through pine-shaded paths that soften the transition between trail and vertical stone. Once on the route, the climb’s rhythm invites focus and flow — each jam and foot placement calling for steady breathing and a patient pace.
Gear up with a full set of cams, emphasizing smaller sizes through #4, and a rack of nuts to supplement protection where needed. Feet that grip the granite edges well and chalk for your hands will make all the difference on those technical jams and the slick slab. Hydrate before leaving base camp and bring a light pack; the climb’s short length means you can savor movement over burden.
Banana Town is a gateway experience to Baboon Crag’s more demanding walls, an honest climb that sharpens your trad skills while immersing you in the serene alpine environment of the Lake Tahoe region. Whether you’re brushing up ahead of a longer day or simply chasing a crisp, technically rewarding pitch, this route stands out as a reliable challenge with a straightforward approach and solid protection.
Although the anchors and bolts are solid, pay careful attention to gear placements in the initial crack to avoid any ground fall while transitioning to the slab. The approach trail sees occasional loose rock, so watch your step to minimize slips en route.
Start mid-morning to catch dry rock and moderate sun exposure on the slab.
Wear shoes with sticky soles for both crack jams and slick slab transitions.
Expect a brief but steady approach through shaded pine terrain—trail runners or light hiking shoes suffice.
Check weather for afternoon thunderstorms common in summer afternoons at Donner Summit.
Bring a full trad rack from finger-sized cams up to #4 for the horizontal jam; three bolts protect the slab section before reaching a two-bolt anchor equipped with chains.
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