"Banana Split is a compelling single-pitch trad route on Alabama Hills’ Western Wall, weaving through steady seams and a prominent crack. With solid protection options and a moderate 5.9 rating, it’s a perfect objective for trad climbers eager to hone crack skills amid spectacular desert scenery."
Banana Split offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to trad climbing along the iconic Western Wall in Alabama Hills. This single-pitch route threads through clean seams and face holds, beginning just to the right of the well-known Bananarama climb. The line immediately demands attention as you navigate delicate moves past a lone bolt, balancing between secure face climbing and an inviting wide crack that opens up mid-route. The crack beckons for solid finger and hand jams, providing excellent protection opportunities up to 4 inches, making gear placement both reliable and satisfying. As you ascend, the rock, sun-warmed and only lightly textured, encourages a steady pace, while the sprawling desert landscape below stretches out, inviting moments of calm focus. The climb’s moderate 5.9 rating sits comfortably for trad novices looking to push their limits in a stunning outdoor setting without overwhelming technical complexity.
Approach to Banana Split is straightforward, starting from the popular trailhead near Lone Pine. The walk along the sandy desert floor takes roughly 15 minutes, with a gentle gradient that carries you beneath the dramatic granite faces of the Tall Wall. Towering rock catches the sun throughout the day, but early mornings provide cooler shade, ideal for a relaxed warmup. Climbers should prepare for typical desert conditions—they’ll want sturdy shoes with good edge support, plenty of water, and sun protection due to the exposed nature of the approach and climb.
Protection quality here is a highlight: the crack sizes range from friendly fingers to hands wide enough for solid cams in the 3 to 4-inch category, which makes gear choices simple but effective. The presence of a bolt mid-route offers a comforting security point, though those seeking a purer trad experience will appreciate the natural placements. Anchors at the top are well established, allowing for safe and easy descent by rap or walk-off.
Safety wise, keep in mind that rock quality, while mostly reliable, can feature occasional loose flakes near the bolt area. Awareness and deliberate testing of holds before committing will help minimize risk. Also, the desert airflow can shift quickly—summer climbs are best tackled in cooler mornings to avoid overheating and dehydration risk.
Banana Split sits within Alabama Hills, a vibrant and accessible climbing destination known for its striking granite formations and sweeping views of the Eastern Sierra. The area’s blend of remote ambiance and steady visitor traffic creates a welcoming environment for climbers eager to experience classic trad lines bordered by rugged ranges and open sky.
Whether you’re testing crack techniques or simply soaking in your first trad ascent, Banana Split delivers a compact, rewarding climb that captures the spirit of the region’s granite walls. It’s an ideal candidate for anyone ready to step into trad climbing with a route that balances challenge and approachability on equally impressive rock.
Stay alert for loose flakes especially near the bolt and maintain firm gear placements to account for desert-exposed conditions that can dry out the rock’s surface. Hydration is critical; desert heat can quickly sap strength and focus.
Start early to avoid midday desert heat and enjoy cooler shade on the rock.
Use sticky-soled shoes with firm edging to navigate the face moves smoothly.
Test rock holds cautiously near the bolt area due to occasional loose flakes.
Carry at least 2 liters of water and apply sunblock for the exposed approach and climb.
Bring cams sized between 3 and 4 inches for secure placements in the wide crack sections; a single bolt provides mid-route assurance. Traditional protection is key here, with no need for specialized sport gear.
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