"Banana Peels cracks open a gritty trad experience on Sundance Buttress, packed with damp, lichen-covered chimneys and challenging protection. This climb demands steady nerves and precise gear placement, rewarding those ready to engage with Colorado’s raw alpine grit."
Banana Peels stands out on Sundance Buttress with a gritty mix of slick, lichen-covered chimneys that test both resolve and skill at 5.8. Located within the rugged Lumpy Ridge formation above Estes Park Valley, this climb pulls you into a raw Colorado high-country environment, where weathered rock and unpredictable conditions demand respect. The approach drops you into a landscape of granite slabs and scattered pines, the air crisp with the hint of alpine elevation. The first pitch unfolds as a straightforward but edgy chimney, textured with patches of moss and damp rock that will keep your hands searching for secure holds. Though rated a moderate 5.8, the climb’s character is less about pure technicality and more about managing risk and flow in a semi-exposed setting.
The real conversation starts above, where climbers speak of a daunting left-facing open chimney that creeps into 5.9 territory with serious runout (R/X). Here, wet and loose rock complicates each move, demanding a hardened mindset more than just raw power. This pitch is often avoided or only partially attempted, with many opting for a 90-foot rappel back to the ground or linking into the more reliable Kor's Flake to descend. This cautious approach reflects the climb’s inherent unpredictability—while the route offers adventure, it rewards only firm footwork and calculated protection placement.
Protecting Banana Peels requires a solid traditional rack sized up to a #4 Camalot. The crack systems are generous but irregular, with placements that need patience and precision. The presence of lichen signals the need for thorough gear cleaning and vigilant stance assessment before committing to key moves. Experienced trad climbers will appreciate the mental puzzle as much as the physical, negotiating chimneys that seem to shift underfoot.
From a planning standpoint, allow extra time to scout and adjust for surface variability. The route’s north-facing aspect often holds moisture late into the season, so aim for stable, dry windows in late summer or early fall. Footwear with sticky rubber and secure ankle support will enhance confidence on tricky steps. Hydration and layered clothing are must-haves given the altitude and the variable weather of the Estes Park area.
Though not the most polished or popular pitch on Sundance Buttress, Banana Peels offers an authentic test for those drawn to less-traveled rock with a touch of unpredictability. It’s a climb where you engage directly with the stone’s mood swings, rewarding preparedness and a steady nerve.
Repair your mindset for a route that is part puzzle, part physical effort, and entirely Colorado tradition. Below, you’ll find detailed beta and practical tips to tackle Banana Peels safely and effectively.
Expect slippery holds from wet, mossy patches and be wary of loose rock in the upper chimney. Protection opportunities can be sparse and sometimes tricky, increasing the risk of longer falls. A careful assessment before committing to moves is vital. Consider retreat via a long rappel if the upper chimney conditions feel unsafe.
Aim for dry, late summer or early fall conditions to reduce slickness from lingering moisture.
Consider a 90-foot rappel to descend safely if the upper chimney pitch looks risky.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes with solid ankle support to manage tricky chimney moves.
Scout protection placements thoroughly; lichen and loose rock require extra caution.
A standard trad rack up to a #4 Camalot is essential, focusing on secure placements in wet and licheny chimneys. Prepare for some tricky pro on loose sections, and consider a clean rack to avoid gear contamination.
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