"Banana Peel threads through Squamish’s Apron with eight pitches of varied trad climbing, balancing moderate slab moves and finger crack traverses. Its approachable yet technical nature makes this route a compelling choice for climbers eager to experience classic granite without excessive difficulty."
Banana Peel offers a compelling trad climbing experience on one of Squamish's iconic walls, The Apron, delivering sustained moderate moves woven through its varied slab and corner pitches. The climb begins with a brisk approach, sharing a start with the famous Diedre route before veering right to pick up a couple of bolts. Immediately, you're greeted by slabs that demand smarts and delicate footwork alongside moments to stretch and reach handholds carved by water flow. As you ascend, the narrow ledges and well-placed sling anchors invite a rhythm of movement that blends strategy with steady breathing.
Pitch by pitch, you encounter features that push your technical skill—particularly on the fourth pitch with its finger crack traverse and a crux climbing of 5.7 difficulty. This section challenges your balance and finesse, amplifying the satisfaction when you find a reliable tree belay as a resting point. Moving up, the water scoops carve a natural line upward, leading to a small alcove equipped with gear-friendly belays that remind you to pause and appreciate the granite's texture—a surface shaped by years of water etching and wind polishing.
The sixth pitch stands out with a short, steep slab that, while rated a moderate 5.7, demands attention due to its “a little freaky” nature. Here, climbers feel the rock’s personality as they surmount the moves, rewarded by smoother sections that follow. Two options await at the top of this pitch: a notable cam placement enables setting a semi-toprope for the second climber across the slab, or a confident partner can push up a corner to a massive flake and a tree belay, skipping an intermediate stop. This flexibility allows teams to adapt based on skill and confidence.
Higher pitches breeze up water-sculpted scoops and friendly slabs, encouraging steady foot placements atop solid rock. The final section reads more like a class 4 scramble than a technical climb, culminating at a tree belay marking the finish. Throughout, the route's protection calls for a standard rack up to 2-inch cams, paired with extra-long slings for tricky placements and extended reach. Though many moves are moderate, expect to manage some runouts where commitment grows alongside your exposure.
Beyond the technicalities, Banana Peel immerses you in Squamish’s vast granite realm. The fresh mountain air carries subtle pine scents while distant crows punctuate the silence. Shades of moss and occasional scrabbles of small wildlife connect your climb directly to the living wilderness around you. The route is part of an area celebrated for its accessibility and diversity of climbs, situating you within a climbing community that thrives on challenge and camaraderie.
For any aspiring climber visiting Squamish, Banana Peel offers solid mileage on traditional cracks and slabs without overwhelming complexity. With eight pitches covering roughly 600 feet, it provides a balanced day filled with variety, engagement, and a taste of the legendary Chief’s granite playground. Preparation includes packing gear suited for crack placements and slab climbing, timing your climb to avoid mid-summer heat, and arriving early enough to secure parking and a solid start time. Fresh water and layered clothing will keep you comfortable, especially when winds sweep through the Apron’s exposure.
In short, Banana Peel rewards focus, technique, and a respect for trad ethic with a memorable stretch of classic Squamish granite. Whether you’re honing your traditional skills or seeking a dependable multi-pitch route with diversity, this climb invites you in with straightforward beta and enough challenge to sharpen both your mind and limbs.
Expect some runouts and make conservative gear choices on the slab sections, especially around the sixth pitch crux where rock is steep and protection placements a bit sparse. Tree belays are common but always check for stability before weighting. The approach can be slick and exposed in wet conditions—avoid climbing after heavy rains.
Start early to avoid afternoon crowds and heat on the slab pitches.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for delicate slab friction.
Bring plenty of water; natural sources are limited on the approach.
Watch for loose gear placements on the sixth pitch slab crux and double-check sling anchors on trees.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams along with extra-long slings for extended placements and awkward flake gear placements. A couple of quickdraws may help for bolt sections early on.
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