Adventure Collective

Balls: A Direct Line Through Tollhouse Rock's Granite Sweep

Clovis, California United States
friction climbing
runout
multi-pitch
granite slab
technical crack
mental crux
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Balls
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Balls carves a bold and varied path across one of Tollhouse Rock’s grand granite faces. Offering four pitches of friction, smedge, and crack climbing, it challenges climbers with a mix of technical moves and mental stamina—notably on its exposed fourth pitch. A must for trad and sport climbers craving diverse terrain in the Southern Sierra."

Balls: A Direct Line Through Tollhouse Rock's Granite Sweep

Balls presents a compelling vertical journey along one of the most prominent rock faces at Tollhouse Rock, slicing a direct route through vast granite expanses. Stretching across four distinct pitches, this climb offers a varied experience where each segment introduces a new texture of rock and a unique challenge. From the opening moves on friction and smedge holds that test precision and nerve, to the mental test posed by the runout fourth pitch, this route captures both technical refinement and bold decision-making.

The first pitch demands focused technique as you edge delicately upward toward a well-placed bolt, then commit to a stretch of exposed friction climbing with bolt spacing that requires trust in both your skill and your partner’s belay. Though protection is available, expect 15 to 20 feet between bolts on clean, white granite that feels both smooth and solid underfoot. Once past this initial technical hurdle, the difficulty eases, smoothing into a rhythm of moderate challenges with bolts spaced to balance safety and adventure.

Pitch two shifts style, climbing straight from the belay with two bolts set far apart. It features moderate 5.7 moves on a face that favors small dishes and knobs over pure friction. This pitch’s runout nature keeps the climber thinking, but the climbing remains accessible for those with a comfort zone around this grade. The sense of exposure is underscored by the open arch corner above, creating a quiet moment to appreciate the climb’s scale.

The third pitch steps back into technical territory with 5.9 moves that blend crack and face climbing. Starting in a right-facing arching corner protected by small nuts and cams, the line then arcs left onto a face dotted with bolts where you must navigate around a left-facing roof. This pitch demands thoughtful gear placements, especially smaller cams and wires, as well as strategic bolt clipping. The route occasionally invites a variation known as “Brains,” which ventures straight up but is notably runout and should be approached with caution.

The final pitch intensifies the psychological challenge. Straight-up friction climbing, punctuated by only three bolts, pushes you through sustained 5.8 moves on slabby granite, culminating on a ledge suitable for belaying. For those preferring reduced exposure, a rightward variation provides an alternative crack system with additional gear placements, easing rope drag if managed carefully with long slings or double ropes.

Balls captures the essence of classic Sierra granite routes: technical mastery paired with an earthy, engaged dialogue with the rock. Preparation is key here—adequate draws, a smart gear rack on hand for the third pitch’s demanding protection, and careful route-finding on the fourth pitch variation add up to a confident ascent. Whether you’re aiming for the direct line’s elegance or exploring the variations toward Munge Master, expect a mountain experience grounded in both physical challenge and quiet moments that affirm why Tollhouse Rock remains a favorite for climbers seeking substance over spectacle.

Climber Safety

Pitch one’s bolt spacing and proximity to the ground require an especially attentive belay. The fourth pitch’s sustained friction climbing comes with sparse protection; evaluate comfort with runout trad moves before committing. Approach seasonally to avoid wet stone that can turn friction slabs treacherous.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches4
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Keep your belayer attentive through pitch one’s close bolt spacing—ground proximity makes for serious consequences.

The runout nature of pitch two demands calm control; trust your feet on small dishes.

Bring a full set of smaller cams and nuts for the third pitch’s crack protection; larger cams help for the fourth pitch variation.

Consider long slings or double-rope techniques on pitch four to mitigate rope drag during the variation climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels solidly earned on the first and third pitches where technical friction and subtle cracks push the skill level. The ‘R’ rating speaks to the runout sections, especially on pitch four where protection is sparse. While not wildly bold compared to some classic Sierra climbs, the mental challenge remains palpable, with a crux that requires steady nerves and precise footwork. Climbers familiar with local routes like Munge Master will find Balls a comparably demanding but more directly engaging line.

Gear Requirements

Carry 6 to 10 quickdraws for the bolts plus a rack of small nuts and cams for the third pitch. Supplement this with cams up to 2-3 inches if you plan to climb the fourth pitch variation, especially to manage the more complex protection placements and avoid rope drag.

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Tags

friction climbing
runout
multi-pitch
granite slab
technical crack
mental crux