Ball Bearing presents a striking two-pitch trad climb carved into the East Face of a prominent granite formation in Joshua Tree National Park’s Real Hidden Valley. The route kicks off with a demanding left-leaning finger crack just to the left of Fote Hog. This initial crack invites secure gear placements with smaller cams that snugly fill the seam, giving climbers steady protection as they ascend. The route then veers right following a horizontal break before swinging back to another left-trending finger crack. This sustained crack section demands precise hand jams and delicate footwork, testing your technique and control. As you near the anchors atop pitch one, the crack gives way to a few technical face moves that push stamina and balance before reaching the two-bolt belay. The protection here is generally reliable; however, staying focused during these face moves is key as the exposure builds.

The second pitch extends upward from the belay, climbing past a well-bolted midpoint anchor secured with stainless steel hardware. This segment ramps up the challenge with more technical climbing where gear placements thin out and the rock demands confident body positioning. While the protection remains solid, the moves off the belay require conviction and precise foot placements to maintain momentum. The full climb stretches roughly 180 feet, offering climbers a concise yet engaging experience that combines the characteristic crack climbing Joshua Tree is known for with technical face sequences that add variety.

Approach the route from Real Hidden Valley parking, following established trails that lead toward the east side of the granite face. The terrain en route is a dry desert landscape punctuated by rugged boulders and sparse, resilient vegetation, setting the tone for a classic Joshua Tree outing. Expect about a 15-minute hike with some loose sections—good hiking shoes with solid traction will keep your footing steady. Given the southern exposure of this face, early morning starts can help avoid the heat, especially during warmer months.

Gear up with a comprehensive set of cams, emphasizing smaller sizes up to #2 Camalot, supplemented by doubles in smaller TCU sizes. These placements give you secure protection along the cracks, while the fixed bolts mid-route offer a reassuring midpoint anchor. Pair your rack with sticky rubber shoes that excel on both crack jams and edging to maximize efficiency during the varied climbing sequences.

Ball Bearing offers a compelling blend of crack climbing and technical face moves framed against Joshua Tree’s stark desert backdrop. It challenges climbers with thoughtful protection requirements and a route that grows in intensity across two pitches. Whether you’re refining your finger crack technique or seeking an accessible 5.10a route outside more crowded areas, this climb rewards measured commitment and solid gear management. Remember to hydrate well before and after, and time your ascent to avoid the full desert heat.

Prepare for a descent by rappelling from either the two-bolt anchors at the top of pitch two or from the midpoint belay after pitch one if you prefer a shorter outing. Pay close attention to your rappel setup and double-check knots and hardware as ledges here can be narrow and unforgiving. This climb strikes a careful balance between adventure and practicality, encouraging climbers to engage fully with the rock’s natural features while maintaining safety and efficiency.