5.10a, Trad
Joshua Tree
California ,United States
"Bad Lizards at Rat Rock challenges climbers with an 80-foot trad pitch combining slab and crack. Located in Joshua Tree National Park, it offers a distinctive desert climb with bolted security and a careful downclimb finish."
Bad Lizards offers a focused, quality trad climb tucked in the iconic Rat Rock sector near Barker Dam within Joshua Tree National Park. Approaching this line, you’ll cross the quiet expanse of Barker Dam before navigating a short walk around Rat Rock’s west side, setting the stage for a route that mixes slick slabs with classic crack climbing. The route begins on an unobtrusive vertical dike, a narrow rock feature that steadily rises underlined with bolts marking your path. As you push upward, the texture shifts beneath your fingers and feet, culminating in a challenging overhang that demands both strength and technique—protected by a well-placed bolt—and then moves rightward past three more bolts to the summit.
The rock here demands respect: its coarse grain offers reliable friction, but the exposure to the elements in Joshua Tree’s desert climate calls for sun protection and plenty of water before your ascent. The route’s single 80-foot pitch packs a variety of moves, blending face climbing with crack techniques, testing your footwork and tactical gear placements. Despite the bolts aiding protection on the dike and overhang sections, downclimbing at the top to your left (north) requires care, as no rappel anchors are available.
Joshua Tree’s rugged environment lends itself to a climbing experience that balances challenge with stunning natural surroundings. The dry desert air carries subtle sounds of wind through low bushes and distant scrub, and the sun shifts quickly with little shade on the wall. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon avoids the peak heat, especially important on the exposed slab approach. The approach itself is straightforward—about a ten-minute walk with some gentle scrambling—making Bad Lizards accessible without an arduous trek.
This climb suits intermediate climbers comfortable managing gear placements amid varied terrain. The bolts provide solid reassurance during technical sections, but the combination of slab and crack climbing keeps it interesting both mentally and physically. Familiarity with Joshua Tree’s desert conditions, loose rock potential near the base, and reliable hydration are key to a successful ascent. This is a route that celebrates desert climbing’s raw essence—not overbuilt, but perfectly poised for those ready to meet the rock on its terms.
No rappel bolts are present at the top; climbers must downclimb northward with care. The rock’s desert dryness can cause loose granules near the base—test footholds before trusting. Avoid summer midday heat to prevent dehydration and slippery sweat on the slab approach.
Cross Barker Dam early to avoid afternoon crowds and heat.
Wear sturdy shoes with good friction for the slab approach.
Bring 2-3 quickdraws to clip the bolts efficiently.
Plan your descent carefully—no rappel rings, so downclimb left with caution.
Seven bolts protect most of the route, especially the vertical dike and overhang sections. While the line leans on bolts for security, solid trad gear skills are needed for the approach and downclimb.
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