HomeClimbingBacon Flake

Bacon Flake: Technical Trad Climbing on Echo Cove's South Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
right-slant crack
desert
trad
single pitch
sun exposure
Joshua Tree
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bacon Flake
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bacon Flake offers a brief but engaging trad experience on Echo Cove’s south face, challenging climbers with a right-slanting crack that demands precise technique. Ideal for trad novices or those scouting Joshua Tree’s technical lines, this route blends tactical climbing with desert sun and scenic beauty."

Bacon Flake: Technical Trad Climbing on Echo Cove's South Face

Bacon Flake holds a distinct personality on the south face of Echo Cove, offering climbers a concise yet engaging taste of Joshua Tree’s technical crack climbing. The route is positioned just right of the more frequented lines Possessed by Elvis and Flake and Bake, presenting a right-slanting crack that challenges climbers with its awkward, off-angle moves. This initial section demands precise footwork and confident hand jams, as the crack’s diagonal nature requires thoughtful body positioning to maintain upward momentum. Beyond this technical start, the climbing eases into more moderate terrain, allowing climbers to relax into smoother movements while soaking in the stark desert panorama.

At only 30 feet, Bacon Flake is a punchy taste of Joshua Tree’s desert granite that doesn’t overstay its welcome. Its one-pitch length makes it ideal for those curious about trad climbing’s subtle dance between protection and movement without committing to longer routes. This line invites a solid standard rack, as pro placements are straightforward once past the initial trickier crack section. Climbing here engages all the senses—the dry, warm rock presses easily into your hands, while the sun-bleached boulders around you hum with the energy of the high desert.

Located in the Echo Cove sector of Joshua Tree National Park, the approach is short and practical, crossing through desert scrub and sandy terrain with minimal elevation gain. The wall’s orientation on the south face ensures that it catches the sun early in the day, making mornings ideal to avoid overheating. As the sun climbs higher, shade retreats, so careful timing is key to keeping your hands dry and your energy up.

Protecting yourself on Bacon Flake is straightforward with a traditional rack—the crack is reliable for placements but not extensive enough to demand wide-ranging gear. Climbers will appreciate the route’s solid rock and consistent features, though the initial off-vertical section requires extra attention to protection.

After topping out, descent involves a short walk back to the base, with no complicated downclimbing or rappelling required. The route’s accessibility and clear lines make it a solid choice for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills in a stunning California desert setting.

Climber Safety

Watch for dry, dusty pockets at the crack’s entry that can decrease foot friction and test early gear placements. The short length means staying alert from the start, as the crux demands good control to avoid falls onto shallow ledges.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday desert heat on the south face.

Bring sticky-soled shoes for secure foot jams on the slanting crack.

Double-check gear placements early in the climb where the crack angle shifts.

Carry plenty of water; Joshua Tree’s dry air can dehydrate faster than expected.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.8, Bacon Flake offers an approachable challenge with a crux on the right-slanting crack that requires technical finesse but falls within comfortable range for intermediate climbers. The grade feels fair and honest, with a neat balance between awkward jams and easier climbing above, making it slightly stiffer than adjacent routes but accessible if you have solid crack skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers all protection needs here, focusing on small to medium cams and stoppers for the slanting crack. No specialized gear required beyond the basics.

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Tags

right-slant crack
desert
trad
single pitch
sun exposure
Joshua Tree