"Back In The Saddle is a concise trad climb threading an easy ramp into a right-facing crack before widening into an offwidth. With a mix of crack climbing and delicate slab moves finishing on a distinctive horn, this 65-foot route offers solid gear placements and stellar views of Alabama Hills for those seeking a technical yet approachable trad experience."
Back In The Saddle offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad line high in the Alabama Hills, where rugged granite meets expansive desert skies. The route begins with a broad, inviting ramp that eases you into the climb, giving just enough space to settle into the rhythm of movement. Soon, your hands find purchase along a right-facing crack that demands attention as it gradually widens into an offwidth—a change in terrain that asks for thoughtful body positioning and steady technique. Above this, the climb opens to a distinctive saddle and then a horn, where you encounter a single fixed bolt before moving onto technical slab moves leading to the summit. The slab, while delicate, provides solid friction and a chance to move fluidly as you finish the pitch. Protection gear ranges from small cams up to large #5 Camelots, ensuring that you’re well-armed for the changes in crack size and the offwidth section. The 65-foot length keeps this route concise but engaging, perfect for climbers seeking a manageable trad experience with a taste of technical variety. The setting itself is spare but captivating, framed by the stark contrasts of the Sierra’s eastern edge, with the desert sun casting shadows that shift over the rock’s textured surfaces. Approach trails are sandy and open, requiring minimal time, making this climb an ideal afternoon outing or a solid warm-up for a longer day in the hills. On clear days, the view from the summit horn delivers a rewarding perspective across the Alabama Hills, inviting a moment to absorb the quiet geometry of this unique landscape before the descent. For those planning to send Back In The Saddle, focusing on offwidth technique and slab balance will serve you well, and be prepared for the variable rock texture as you transition from crack to slab. With solid anchor options and straightforward access, this route presents an approachable challenge that respects climbers’ time and skill without sacrificing quality or character.
The offwidth section demands calm and careful movement—avoid rushing, as poor positioning can lead to unnecessary exhaustion or slips. The slab finish, while not steep, can feel exposed and slick if dusty; take time to clean foot holds and remain deliberate. Seasonal heat is a concern, so plan climbs in cooler parts of the day and carry adequate water for both approach and descent.
Focus on smooth, controlled body movements through the offwidth section to conserve energy.
The slab near the summit requires precise footwork—soft rubber shoes can help find traction.
Start early in the day during summer to avoid the harsh desert heat on the ramp and slab.
Check your anchor gear before the climb; fixed bolts are solid but always double-check placements.
Carry a full trad rack with cams ranging up to #5 Camelot to protect the varying crack widths, plus a single quickdraw for the bolt near the top. The two-bolt anchor at the summit offers secure top-rope or rappel options.
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