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Baby Point Five at Trashcan Rock

Twentynine Palms, California United States
slab
runout
desert
exposed
short pitch
minimal protection
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Baby Point Five
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Baby Point Five is a brief but bold traditional climb on Trashcan Rock’s west face. With sparse protection and exposed slab moves, it demands precise footwork and steady nerve in the fading desert sun."

Baby Point Five at Trashcan Rock

Baby Point Five offers a concise yet demanding trad pitch on the west face of Trashcan Rock, located in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park's Quail Springs Area. This climb places you immediately on a sheer, unprotected slab where commitment becomes part of the challenge—there are no ready-made anchors or bolts here to catch a fall, only the sparse placement of a couple of cams near the top to protect your move off the ground. The rock is solid but offers minimal holds, requiring steady footwork and precise hand placements. The approach to Trashcan Rock meanders through sun-scorched desert scrub and resilient yuccas, setting a dry, warm scene that warns you to come armed with plenty of water and sun protection.

From the base, the route demands careful route-finding; it lies just to the right of the better-known Walkway route. You finish on the same anchor set as Walkway, adding convenience to a climb that otherwise feels exposed and raw. At 40 feet, Baby Point Five is brief, but its 5.8 R rating means you must be comfortable handling runouts and placing your gear solidly under pressure. The "R" indicates significant runout sections where falls would be hazardous, so climbers should approach with focused caution and confident footwork.

The west-facing wall basks in direct afternoon sun, making early morning or late afternoon the ideal times to climb, especially in warmer months. The clear desert air carries the subtle sounds of small animals rustling among rocks and the distant crackle of wind through brittle shrubs. This exposure pairs natural beauty with a serious test of head game, reminding climbers that Joshua Tree’s climbs often reward respect over haste.

The area itself, infamous for its rugged accessibility and classic desert climbing challenges, delivers sweeping views of the surrounding rocky landscape stretching into the horizon. After the climb, the descent involves a straightforward walk-off, allowing quick and safe exit from the quiet wilderness back to your vehicle. Prepare for typical desert conditions—sturdy footwear to handle jagged rocks and steady hydration to combat the dry heat.

Though fairly short, Baby Point Five appeals to traditionalists who seek a raw slab climb with minimal aid and a sharpened edge of risk. It’s an essential part of Trashcan Rock's west face experience, where the rock's personality dares you to trust your placements and control your nerves. For those ready to test mettle against runner-free sections under Joshua Tree’s open sky, this route offers a focused, intense moment of climbing clarity.

Climber Safety

Due to its sparse gear placements and exposed runouts, falls on this route could be serious. Ensure your gear is solid, climb confidently, and avoid this climb when fatigued or in adverse weather to minimize risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the west-facing slab.

Carry enough water to stay hydrated; desert air drains moisture quickly.

Be comfortable placing gear on thin edges as protection is sparse.

Use sturdy approach shoes for the rocky and uneven trail to Trashcan Rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating paired with an 'R' adjectival rating indicates you are climbing on the edge of comfort with significant runout sections. The grade feels firm for the technical balance and foot precision required, making baby Point Five a test of mental composure as much as climbing skill. Compared with nearby routes at Joshua Tree with similar grades but better protection, this one demands respect for its exposure and bold moves.

Gear Requirements

Minimal protection is required—bring a few small to medium cams for the top section since the route itself offers little in the way of natural gear placements.

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Tags

slab
runout
desert
exposed
short pitch
minimal protection