"Babaloos is a sharp 70-foot sport climb on an 8-bolt arête at Butterbags Buttress, offering crisp movement and steady protection in the heart of Joshua Tree’s desert expanse. Ideal for intermediate climbers seeking a reliable single-pitch challenge with sweeping desert views."
Babaloos offers a focused yet rewarding climb on an 8-bolt arête that stands out against the rugged backdrop of Butterbags Buttress in Joshua Tree National Park. This 70-foot sport route unfolds on solid, sunbaked rock with clean lines that invite climbers to test their technique and composure. The arête’s sharp edges catch the light as the desert wind hums through the creosote and juniper, lending a quiet voice to the stillness of the high desert.
Starting just one foothold up and left of the main Butterbags Buttress, Babaloos balances exposure with practicality, making it an approachable option for climbers angling for a short but engaging pitch on quality stone. The route’s 5.9 rating places it in that zone where intermediate climbers find challenge without undue strain, while advanced climbers appreciate the crisp movement and steady protection that keep the flow steady.
The route is equipped with eight well-spaced bolts, ensuring climbers can focus on smooth clipping and movement rather than gear hunting. The bolted anchor at the top doubles as a reliable rappel station and serves nearby climbs like Baby Pillows, making the descent straightforward and safe.
Butterbags Buttress is accessed via a moderate approach through the Cottonwood Area, where desert scrub shifts to rocky desert plains. The trail offers a tactile experience underfoot—sandy stretches giving way to rocky sections—before reaching the base. The desert sun motivates early starts or late afternoon sessions when shade softens the heat. Hydrating before and after the climb is essential, and sturdy shoes with sticky rubber will enhance your grip on the often coarse granite.
While Babaloos is short in length, its quality makes it well worth the visit. The route nestles in a broader landscape favored for its open vistas and distinct rock features, where quiet moments between climbs highlight the desert’s vastness. Expect a steady breeze that acts like a natural air conditioner and watch for temperature shifts that signal a swiftly changing day.
Prepare for your climb with quick draws, a rope long enough for a 70-foot pitch, and a helmet for any stray chips. The route’s bolts are solid but spacing keeps you involved, offering a balance of psychological and physical engagement. Climbers seeking a solid, classic desert sport pitch will find Babaloos an ideal match that blends reliable protection with the elemental beauty of Joshua Tree.
This climb is more than a chance to tick a 5.9; it’s a moment to connect with the desert’s enduring character and experience the interaction between hand and stone. Whether you’re polishing your sport lead skills or savoring a desert outing, Babaloos rewards with a clean line and a straightforward path to a satisfying send.
While protection is reliable, be mindful of the exposed arête—maintain control and avoid rushing. The desert environment can cause loose debris on the approach, and temperatures shift quickly, so prepare for heat and sun exposure accordingly.
Start early or late to avoid peak desert heat and enjoy cooler climbing conditions.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging and rubber for the coarse granite surface.
Hydrate thoroughly and carry extra water to account for dry desert air.
Check for rattlesnakes along the approach in warmer months, moving carefully through brush.
Bring quick draws and a rope suitable for a single 70-foot pitch. The route features solid bolts and a bolted anchor at the top, which doubles as a rappel station. No trad gear required.
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