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Auld Lang Syne: A Cautionary Crack on Wailing Sax Wall

Twentynine Palms, California United States
hand crack
loose flake
desert
trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Auld Lang Syne
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Auld Lang Syne offers a solitary 50-foot hand crack on Joshua Tree’s Wailing Sax Wall — a climb that blends desert quiet with an uneasy challenge. With loose rock and tricky pro, this is a route best approached with caution and respect."

Auld Lang Syne: A Cautionary Crack on Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne sits quietly on the rugged Wailing Sax Wall, tucked within the Sheep Pass Group Campground area of Joshua Tree National Park. This short, single-pitch crack climb offers about 50 feet of trad climbing that calls for careful consideration before approaching its worn features. At a moderate 5.8 R, this route promises the challenge of hand jam climbing through a finger-width fissure — yet the experience is marred by a loose flake embedded within the crack, making both protection and movement precarious. For climbers seeking the pure joy of clean gear placements and solid stone, this one carries a weight of caution that should not be ignored.

The surrounding desert air is dry and still, the sun casting sharp shadows as it moves westward over the granite face. Joshua trees and desert scrub frame the approach trail, their whispers carried on dry wind. The wall’s south-eastern exposure means morning climbs lend some shade, but by midday, the rock bakes under the desert sun, demanding early starts and careful hydration. The approach from Sheep Pass Campground is straightforward but rough around the edges, crossing loose scree patches and sparse vegetation. Yet the simplicity of the approach contrasts sharply with the route itself, which challenges climbers not with technical complexity but with uncertainty in its protection and rock stability.

Auld Lang Syne may initially seduce the adventurous with its vintage vibe — a nod to desert climbing’s roots — yet it quickly reveals its true character: an uneasy climb that tests judgment as much as finger strength. The hand crack requires careful insertion of cams and nuts, but the loose flake lodged inside forces generous hesitation, as its shifting threatens to undermine placements. This isn’t a climb for the faint-hearted or those unfamiliar with placing gear in desert cracks. Instead, it requires a seasoned eye, trustworthy rack, and a readiness to back off if the rock’s voice becomes too loud.

The wider Joshua Tree area, known for its desert granite and sprawling wilderness, offers countless climbs that balance exposure with quality rock and protection. Auld Lang Syne stands apart as a reminder that not all routes are created equal. It is a snapshot of the unpredictable nature of desert climbing — some cracks will hold tight, others will remind you why vigilance is the first safety gear.

Climbers planning to spend their day around the Sheep Pass area will find plenty of other routes rewarding careful effort and offering solid pro. Approach early to avoid midday heat, bring a standard trad rack with extra small cams for the tight hand crack, and always test holds and placements thoroughly before committing. This climb is a study in managing risk and respecting the rock; it demands patience, sharp observation, and a willingness to turn back if the feel isn’t right.

Overall, Auld Lang Syne delivers a brief but memorable challenge framed by a desert landscape that both dares and demands respect – where every crack has a story, and sometimes those stories caution rather than invite.

Climber Safety

The presence of a detached flake in the crack means some protection places can be unreliable. Climbers should move cautiously, test every hold, and be prepared to back off. Loose rock can increase fall hazards, so maintain slow, deliberate pacing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday sun on this southeast-facing wall.

Bring ample water and wear sun protection — desert conditions dry you out fast.

Inspect every hold carefully, especially around the loose flake area.

Consider climbing with a partner familiar with desert trad gear placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating suggests moderate technical difficulty but the loose flake elevates the risk factor, making protection tricky and demanding precision. Compared to other nearby 5.8 trad routes in Joshua Tree, this climb feels noticeably stiffer due to gear uncertainties.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with a focus on small to medium cams covers the gear needed here. The loose flake in the hand crack requires extra caution when placing protection; test all placements and avoid relying solely on gear near the flake.

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Tags

hand crack
loose flake
desert
trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree