"Attitash Crag stands as a sunny, approachable sport climbing area in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Its single pitch routes offer a solid mix of classic moderate climbs, recently reinforced by bolted lines perfect for climbers seeking accessible adventure close to North Conway."
Attitash Crag offers an inviting day of climbing just across from the ski slopes of Bear Peak, New Hampshire. With its single pitch sport routes basking in ample sunlight, this cliff provides a rejuvenating mix of adventure and accessibility suitable for climbers seeking moderate challenges within the White Mountains region. Though older guidebooks may give the impression that Attitash is a modest stop on your climbing map, recent years have added a host of bolted sport climbs that broaden its appeal for both returning climbers and curious newcomers.
The approach to Attitash Crag is scenic yet practical. Start by parking across from Bear Peak at the Thorne Pond lot, then take a counter-clockwise hike around the tranquil Thorne Pond. Soon after, you’ll reach the Saco River, which requires a careful crossing. Note that the river’s flow and shape shifted significantly after flooding events, especially since October 2017. The safest way to cross now is by following a downstream trail about 75 yards, crossing the first half onto a gravel island scattered with uprooted trees, followed by another crossing of the remaining current. The trail beyond is steep and marked by flagging tape leading directly to the cliff’s base. Caution is essential here, as high water conditions can make the river impassable.
Once at the cliff, you are met with predominantly sport climbs focusing around the 5.8 to 5.11 range, with a cluster of classic routes that have earned their reputation for good, consistent quality and enjoyable movement. Climbers praising Ed Webster’s updated guide and websites like neclimbs.com will find the most current information, especially since the 2012 Handren guide brought new attention to this area.
Among the classic climbs, Reach for the Sky, Alice’s Ballroom, Golden Slippers, and Moonriver all float around the 5.8 grade, each earning solid 3.5 star ratings for their flow and accessibility. For those looking to push into the 5.9 grade, How Green Was My Valley, Dukes of Hazard (also known as Three Gems), Lost Boys, and Menethesis stand out as reliable challenges each sharing dependable protection and a friendly rock face. Stepping into the 5.10 range, routes like Trepidation, Contentment, The Flying Jib, and Life of Brian provide well-bolted sport climbs that present steeper or more technical climbing, all within a manageable single pitch length. Thin Line, rated 5.11, rounds out the more demanding options, offering a punchier test for climbers seeking to sharpen their skills.
Attitash Crag sits roughly 883 feet above sea level, featuring rock that has weathered the New England seasons yet remains solid and safe for sport climbing. The cliff’s orientation catches the sun for much of the day, making spring through early fall the most favorable period for climbing. Winter and late fall bring colder and wetter conditions that can make the approach slippery and the routes less enjoyable.
Getting down is straightforward with a walk-off descent via the trail you came in on; no rappelling is required. This ease of access, combined with solid route quality and the charm of its setting close to amenities in the nearby towns, makes Attitash Crag both a fine destination for a half-day outing or a valuable stop on a broader New Hampshire climbing itinerary.
For climbers looking to experience a slice of New Hampshire climbing history along with contemporary sport routes in a sun-soaked setting, Attitash Crag delivers. Just remember to plan your river crossing carefully and keep an eye on water levels. The blend of scenic hiking along Thorne Pond, a refreshing river challenge, and well-bolted climbs focused mostly around the intermediate grades, makes this crag a rewarding spot to test your skills and soak in the forested beauty of the Saco River Valley.
The river crossing can be hazardous during high water or after heavy rains. Always assess river conditions carefully before attempting the crossing and avoid it altogether when flows are high. The approach trail is steep after the crossing, so use caution particularly in slippery or wet conditions.
Park in the Thorne Pond lot across from Bear Peak and hike counter-clockwise around the pond.
Cross the Saco River downstream from the main guidebook crossing to a gravel island then the opposite bank; be cautious during high water.
Check recent beta sources like neclimbs.com and the 2012 Handren North Conway guide for the most up-to-date route information.
Plan your climbing time for spring through early fall to avoid icy or wet conditions on the approach and cliff.
Most climbs here are bolted sport routes, making quickdraws essential. A rack of climbing shoes, helmet, and climbing rope are standard. The approach includes a river crossing that can be tricky during high water, so approach footwear should be sturdy enough for trail and river terrain.
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