HomeClimbingAttack of the Arc’gucci Clones

Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones: A Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
technical crack
multi-pitch
bolted sections
exposed
granite
rappel descent
Length: 390 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones is a six-pitch trad climb on Squamish’s iconic Chief, merging technical crack climbing with bolted sequences that test both power and finesse. Expect sustained movement on sharp granite and an exhilarating descent through a series of precise rappels."

Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones: A Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones stands as a demanding trad route that slices through the steep faces of The Apron, inside the legendary granite playground of The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia. With six sustained pitches stretching 390 feet, this climb blends technical crack work with precise bolted sequences, threading near-vertical rock with sections that push into small overhang territory. It’s a route that draws climbers who thrive on mix-style challenges and enjoy the dance between calculated power and finesse.

The first pitch sets the tone: a slabby arete climb opening into a sharp right traverse along a horizontal layback crack, engaging your technique and balance before following a clean crack system to a fixed anchor. Progressing upward, the second pitch rises through a sculpted crack line interrupted by opposing pancake flakes—ideal holds that disappear to require a well-placed dynamic move. A near-hands-free rest slot beckons just before a bold rightward shift to clip bolts and keep moving upward, exposing climbers to airy, sharp-edged terrain.

Pitch three pushes into more varied climbing. A leftward bolt clip jumps off into some confusion in the line as you descend slightly then maneuver into a corner system. This segment blends slab balance with powerful undercling traverses, sculpting an intricate path leftward to the sheltering presence of a large tree ledge beneath a broad horizontal crack. The wall here feels alive, as if it challenges every move with precise resistance.

Pitch four demands strength and technique; bouldering past bolts into a layback crack system that leads to a roof lip requiring a committed, well-executed mantle. The face climbing that follows is steep and technical, culminating in a tiny ledge with bolts that set the stage for the crux pitch.

Pitch five, rated 5.12a, is a technical pinnacle. The climb veers left, clipping bolts on micro crimps before a tricky traverse along a crimpy rail that tests footwork and body tension. A powerful throw to a substantial hueco holds the promise of reward, anchoring climbers before a final push upward and left to the anchors.

The final pitch offers a breather—rated 5.9, it follows ledges with straightforward climbing, easing tension before the top-out near the trail leading deeper into The Chief’s upper walls.

Descent requires careful planning: four 35-meter rappels deliver climbers back down. Starting from the summit, a sequence of fixed anchors guides you down—to the tree ledge after the fourth rappel, then continuing along a narrow rocky shelf reminiscent of a sidewinding sidewalk, all the way to the base. Rappelling demands attention to rope management and anchor security but rewards with smooth access to the ground.

Protection calls for a full rack of cams up to 4.5 inches. Doubling up on smaller cams between 0.75 and 1 inch proves useful, alongside 5 or 6 quick draws and alpine draws. No nuts are needed, making gear selection straightforward for those familiar with Squamish’s granite cracks.

Climbers tackling Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones find themselves in a climbing corridor alive with movement and contrast—from crack jams to delicate slabs and overhung boulder problems. The route’s fixed anchors and bolts peppered along technical sections allow bold yet safe progress, while the natural placement opportunities underscore trad skills.

Access is straightforward from the Apron trailhead, a well-traveled path that weaves through mixed forest and rock slabs in about 20 minutes to the base of The Apron. The approach is moderate but requires solid navigation skills to stay on track. Squamish itself offers a seamless blend of rugged wilderness and climbing community energy.

For those with experience beyond the 5.11 spectrum and a taste for technical sequences combined with sustained effort, this route presents a rich challenge that rewards both focus and flow. The climb sits on an east-facing wall, making early morning starts ideal for cooler conditions and avoiding afternoon heat.

Safety lies in respecting the technical cruxes and the occasional runout between bolts, plus attentive rope work on rappel. The rock quality is solid overall, though chalk marks and wear suggest regular climber traffic, calling for attention to maintain gear placements and personal focus amid exciting but committing pitches.

Taken together, Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones offers a complete Squamish trad experience — a test of skill on expressive granite with a descent as thoughtfully engineered as the climb itself. It invites bold trad climbers to explore sharp edges, bold moves, and a route that doesn’t give up an inch without earning it.

Climber Safety

While the rock quality is generally solid, some sections feature small overhangs and tenuous footholds requiring vigilant protection placement. Rappels demand attention to fixed anchors and rope management, particularly on the tree ledge walk-off, which can be tricky in damp or windy conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length390 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures on the east-facing wall.

Brush chalk off holds before key moves to maintain friction.

Prepare for dynamic moves on pitch two and the crux on pitch five.

Double-check anchor rigging during descent; rope drag can be significant.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating signals a stiff challenge, especially with the crux pitch featuring micro crimps and a delicate traverse that demands finger strength and precise footwork. The previous pitches hover around 5.10 to 5.11, with some sections feeling slightly hard for their grade due to exposure and technical complexity. Climbers who excel on Squamish’s granite cracks and slab sequences will find this route worthy of their skill set.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams up to 4.5 inches with doubles of 0.75 to 1 inch sizes, plus 5-6 quickdraws and alpine draws. Nuts are not needed for this route.

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Tags

technical crack
multi-pitch
bolted sections
exposed
granite
rappel descent