"Asuntos Exteriores carves a four-pitch trad route on the formidable south face of Peña de Bernal, blending slab and steep climbing with mixed protection. This climb demands steady gear placement and delivers a sustained challenge amid Mexico’s striking central highlands."
Rising from the rugged south face of Peña de Bernal, Asuntos Exteriores offers a gripping trad climb that blends technical moves with an evocative sense of place. Located just 80 feet above where the main hiking trail intersects the cliff—marked famously by the classic Bernalina route—this four-pitch ascent cuts a confident line through brown slabby rock and steeper vertical stretches. The initial pitch invites you into a dance of balance and precision, following three well-placed bolts as you negotiate slab rock inclined slightly right. Moving beyond the bolts, the terrain softens into a small corner where an anchor awaits, signaling the end of this 20-meter opener. It’s a climb that quietly demands attention, rewarding steady footwork and controlled breathing.
The second pitch shifts gears, peeling upwards and slightly left where the rock steepens sharply. Here, the bolts diminish, pushing you to rely on a mix of stoppers and small cams for protection. This pitch stretches about 50 meters, presenting a sustained challenge as you navigate the more exposed sections toward a large vegetated ledge. The belay bolts perched awkwardly above this ledge remind you that traditional skills remain essential; this is not a route you can simply clip and play. The subtle relief found on the ledge grants a brief pause before the climb resumes, more groove-like and dotted with bolts, though some are reported missing, requiring heightened alertness on the third pitch.
The final pitch overlaps with the upper section of Bernalina or an adjacent route, easing the grade down to a modest 5.6 over 50 meters. Climbers finish high above the treeline, rewarded with wide-open views of Querétaro’s rugged Central Mexican landscape. Though Peña de Bernal is better known for its singular monolithic presence, Asuntos Exteriores taps into the mountain’s quieter, steeper face, where the rock feels alive and the climb engages both mind and body.
For those preparing to tackle this route, expect an approach that’s straightforward yet requires awareness of the natural surroundings. The climbing surface is generally solid but varies between slab and steeper faces, offering pockets for gear but demanding competent trad placements—especially on pitch two. The lack of a fixed rappel anchor atop pitch two means planning is crucial; a 60-meter rope and a willingness to traverse left to existing anchors keep your descent smooth.
This climb balances adventure with pragmatism. It invites climbers ready to move beyond fully bolted routes into terrain that dares you to read the rock, place pro wisely, and feel the exposure climb levels up. Ideal during dry seasons, mornings offer cooler conditions under a sun-facing wall, while afternoons catch the heat that the Mexican highlands can deliver. Aspiring to this route means engaging with Peña de Bernal not just as a geological marvel but as a technical challenge that unfolds pitch by pitch, rewarding preparation and respect in equal measure.
Exercise caution on pitch two where bolts disappear as the cliff steepens, requiring secure trad placements in a somewhat runout section. The awkwardly positioned belay anchors above the vegetated ledge need extra attention when setting up. Weather can change rapidly; avoid climbing when the slab is wet or after recent rain for best friction and safety.
Approach the cliff via the main hiking trail intersection near Bernalina, climbing starts about 80 feet uphill.
Bring a standard trad rack with small cams and a selection of stoppers for pitch two’s less-bolted sections.
Plan your descent carefully; no fixed rappel anchors at pitch two, so be ready to move left to rappel adjacent routes.
Early mornings offer cooler temperatures on the south-facing wall, avoiding the afternoon heat common in central Mexico.
This route combines sport bolts with essential trad placements, especially on the second pitch where small cams and stoppers secure protection amidst steeper terrain. Note the absence of a rappel anchor at the top of pitch two, requiring a traverse left to rappel the adjacent line with a 60m rope.
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