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Astride My Indian Queen: A Bold Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
finger crack
bolted face
multi-pitch
northwest facing
mixed terrain
high foothold
technical clipping
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Astride My Indian Queen
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Astride My Indian Queen blends delicate finger crack trad climbing with bolted face climbing in Squamish, threading a line through a regenerating forest scar. This two-pitch route challenges climbers with precise gear placements and technical clipping on steep granite in a setting rich with evolving character."

Astride My Indian Queen: A Bold Trad Climb in Squamish

Astride My Indian Queen carves a distinctive path up the granite faces of Squamish, British Columbia, offering a climb that sits between sharp traditional climbing and steely sport moves. The route, though quieter and less trodden than its famous neighbors, holds a subtle intensity that rewards those willing to explore its compact 120-foot length. Starting from a patchwork of weathered, thin seam cracks that demand precise finger locks and delicate balance, climbers enter a section that challenges both technique and mental focus. The first pitch stretches about 40 meters and uses a combination of slender protection, with cams as small as fingers, set into cracks that end abruptly, forcing you onto bolted faces where smooth clipping and careful footwork become vital.

The trail to the top of this pitch culminates with a crux that requires threading past two bolts to reach a ledge anchoring the rope and offering a breather with views of Squamish’s rugged terrain. Behind this wall, a story of the route’s setting is written in the scars of the rock face: in recent years, the crack has seen logging activity that left stumps rotting and young saplings stubbornly pushing through. This raw, evolving environment is part of the climb’s charm, giving the wall a wildness that contrasts with the precision climbing required.

The second pitch ups the adventure, grading 5.10c with a slabby start tucked into a shallow corner that carries traces of dirt and moss, a remnant of nature’s steady reclamation of this line. It quickly transitions into steeper terrain populated with bolts, suggesting a more sport-like finish, but this pitch remains largely unexplored by many, preserving a sense of mystery and challenge.

Located just a stone's throw from Squamish’s core, the approach is straightforward, threading through dense forest with typical west coast moisture and the captivating calls of local wildlife. Climbers should prepare for slick sections in wet conditions and expect to bring a rack loaded with micro cams up to 2 inches, alongside a robust set of gear for bolted segments. The fixed anchors are solid stainless steel, outfitted with rap rings for smooth two-rope descents.

This route suits climbers ready to test their trad fundamentals and adaptability on mixed terrain, balancing natural crack protection skills with confidence on clipped face climbing. Timing is key—as the wall faces northwest, early to mid-morning starts afford cool conditions and the best light, avoiding afternoon sun and potential dampness from coastal fog. Pack water, sturdy footwear with edge-sensitive soles, and consider a lightweight brush to clean loose debris from holds before leading.

With only a handful of ascents documented, Astride My Indian Queen offers an inviting mix of history, challenge, and natural storytelling carved in stone. Its slightly rugged character and evolving forest edge remind you that climbing routes aren’t only about the grade — they’re about connecting with the landscape’s living changes and pushing your limits in thoughtful partnership with the rock.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the unstable nature of the shallow corner on pitch two, which can carry dirt and small loose rocks. The presence of rotting stumps at the base of some sections suggests the rock may have altered subtly—test placements carefully. Rappel anchors are solid but double-check your setup, especially when lowering ropes on the two-rope system.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of the cooler morning shade on the northwest-facing wall.

Prepare for loose debris on the second pitch's shallow corner—bring a brush to clean holds.

Pack water along the short forested approach to stay hydrated in humid coastal conditions.

Check weather reports carefully—west coast moisture can make slabs slick and tricky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating feels solid with a distinct crux transitioning from technical thin cracks to steep bolted face moves. It’s demanding on delicate placements early on and then shifts focus to precise footwork and clipping efficiency. Climbers familiar with Squamish’s classic mixed lines will find the rating consistent with similarly demanding routes that balance fragile gear with gym-like face moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a comprehensive trad rack with cams up to 2 inches, emphasizing extra small cams for thin seams. Expect to clip five bolts on the first pitch and additional bolts on the second. Anchors feature stainless steel rap rings enabling a safe two-rope rappel from the first pitch's ledge.

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Tags

trad
finger crack
bolted face
multi-pitch
northwest facing
mixed terrain
high foothold
technical clipping