Aslan: Mastering the King of the Whole Wood at El Potrero Chico

Hidalgo, Mexico
pocket climbing
overhung
technical dihedral
5.11a challenge
sport route
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Aslan
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aslan offers a fierce 80-foot single-pitch test at El Potrero Chico, where technical pocket pulling on overhanging terrain challenges climbers at the 5.11a level. This route demands precise footwork and powerful movement, rewarding those who commit to its bold sequences."

Aslan: Mastering the King of the Whole Wood at El Potrero Chico

El Potrero Chico is a playground for climbers craving bold, dynamic sport routes, and Aslan stands out as a fierce test of technique and power on this legendary limestone wall. This 80-foot single-pitch climb invites you to confront a compact dihedral first, where precise footwork and delicate body positioning pave the way. Soon, the route takes a sharp turn with overhanging walls laden with deep pockets that demand confident, tension-filled moves. Each reach feels charged, the limestone offering secure but challenging holds that push your finger strength and core stability.

From the base, the rock’s warm texture warms your palms as the sun drinks into the vertical plane, encouraging the supply of energy but challenging endurance. The climb flows through a series of dynamic sequences that keep momentum essential—rest points are scarce, and the route's pump arrives quickly. The nine fixed bolts ensure a secure line, allowing you to focus on the rhythm and power of your moves rather than gear placement drama.

Located in the striking northern Mexican desert landscape of Nuevo León, Aslan sits within the larger El Potrero Chico area—a realm known for its towering spires and vast vistas. Its position allows climbers to feel deeply connected with the landscape’s raw energy, framed by rugged mountain views and the steady warmth of a clear sky. The route’s sport classification makes it accessible to advanced climbers aiming for that 5.11a challenge, blending technical finesse with athletic reach.

For those planning a day at Aslan, timing your climb for morning hours is ideal to avoid the peak desert heat, while sturdy shoes with sensitive edging will enhance your grip on textured limestone features. Water is essential, as the air here carries a dry intensity that saps hydration quickly. The proximity to the town of Hidalgo makes resupply practical but expect a short drive from the entrance parking lot to the trailhead itself, which requires a moderate approach over uneven terrain.

Summiting Aslan offers a powerful sense of accomplishment with its demanding beta that rewards climbers willing to commit to each hold and sequence. Whether you’re eyeing to sharpen your 5.11 skills or eager to dive into El Potrero Chico’s sport climbing culture, this route offers a vibrant blend of pressure, smooth rock, and desert backdrop to engage all senses.

Climber Safety

While bolted for safety, the route's overhang requires careful clipping to avoid pump buildup and the risk of falls. The rock is generally sound but keep an eye on sharp edges when moving through pockets and bring tape if your skin is sensitive.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb for early morning to beat the heat and enjoy cooler holds.

Bring plenty of water; the dry desert air dehydrates quickly.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging to handle small footholds in the initial dihedral.

Approach requires a moderate hike over rocky terrain—sturdy trail shoes recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a grade on Aslan feels appropriately demanding with its combination of technical climbing and powerful moves on steep limestone. While the rating is spot-on, the crux sequences on overhanging pockets add an extra push to finger strength and body tension, making the route feel lively and engaging. Compared to other El Potrero classics, Aslan sits comfortably as a benchmark for climbers stepping up from solid 5.10 routes into more sustained, physical climbing.

Gear Requirements

Aslan is equipped with 9 bolts, providing solid protection across its single pitch. This setup lets climbers focus fully on technical moves without worrying about gear placements.

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Tags

pocket climbing
overhung
technical dihedral
5.11a challenge
sport route