"Tackle the 5.9 #2 in Coaldale for an accessible yet solid single-pitch trad climb on warm red sandstone. This route balances technical movement with straightforward protection, set in a sharp alpine environment just outside Buena Vista."
Set just outside Buena Vista in Colorado’s rugged Coaldale cliffs, the 5.9 #2 offers climbers a straightforward, satisfying experience on warm-hued rock. The single pitch stretches about 80 feet along a face marked by solid, reachable holds that invite steady movement without forcing unnecessary complexity. This route traces a direct line upward toward shared anchors, making it a practical choice for those looking to hone their traditional climbing skills while savoring the exposed openness of the landscape.
The texture of the rock feels firm and alive beneath your fingers—the reddish sandstone rough and textured enough to give confidence in every grip and foothold. As you climb, the air is crisp with the scent of pine from nearby forests, while distant summits frame the horizon, creating a sense of quiet focus. The rock’s natural features allow for mixed protection; bolts intersperse with gear placements, providing varied and reliable anchoring opportunities. Shared anchors with the adjacent route, Unknown 8, mean a familiar endpoint awaits, helping streamline belay setup and descent.
Approaching this climb involves a moderate hike from Coaldale’s trailheads, covering ground with a blend of forested paths and rocky stretches. The access path allows for an efficient transition from trail to vertical, with enough greenery around to soften the ascent’s ruggedness. Given its southward-facing wall, the climb catches the sun for most of the day but offers brief respite in the early morning or late afternoon when shadows lengthen.
For practical preparation, climbers should bring a standard trad rack, including cams and nuts that fit the mixed placements—small to medium sizes dominate here. Sturdy climbing shoes that can handle uneven edges will aid precision on the varied rock features, while a helmet is advisable due to occasional loose flakes. Hydration is critical, especially in warmer months, since exposure and altitude can accelerate fluid loss. The single pitch nature means the climb is well-suited for a focused half-day outing, leaving time to explore nearby routes or enjoy the natural surroundings.
Safety leans on careful gear placement where bolts are scarce and the approach’s talus might shift unexpectedly. The 5.9 rating is solid but approachable; it rewards technical competence rather than brute strength. Climbers familiar with Coaldale’s quality sandstone will recognize a comfortable but engaging challenge, perfect for those locking into traditional climbing fundamentals while soaking in Colorado’s high-country feel.
In summary, 5.9 #2 at Coaldale offers a crisp introduction to local trad terrain—firm rock, clean lines, and an inviting climb that bridges beginner confidence with the enticing exposure of Colorado’s climbing landscape. Whether sharpening technique or escaping into an afternoon climb, it stands ready to deliver both clear beta and satisfying elevation gain.
Careful gear placement is essential since protection alternates between bolts and natural placements. Check gear placements thoroughly before trusting them. The approach trail passes loose rock and talus—watch your step, especially when carrying gear.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon sun exposure on the south-facing wall.
Bring a helmet due to occasional loose rock near the base.
Use shoes with stiff edges for precise foot placement on the varied holds.
Carry enough water as the hike and climb are exposed with limited shade.
The route requires a mixed rack of traditional gear, including cams and nuts, complemented by bolts placed for critical protection. Medium-sized cams fit best into the key placements along the climb.
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