"A's Jax is a three-pitch trad route in Boulder Canyon that blends scraggy challenges with rewarding fun on a striking right-facing dihedral. Ideal for climbers ready to handle loose rock and traditional protection on an authentic Colorado climb."
A's Jax offers a compelling taste of old-school trad climbing in the heart of Boulder Canyon, Colorado. From the first step onto its rough-hewn ramps, this three-pitch route stakes its claim with genuine character—raw rock, variable protection, and a steady push climbing a series of cracks and corners that test both skill and patience. The climb begins on an unmistakably v-shaped ramp just off the main Bitty Buttress approach, setting the tone for a pitch filled with scrappy moves and a finger crack that demands precise hand jams. Loose blocks pepper the upper sections of this pitch, issuing a subtle warning to tread carefully and pick your placements with intent. As you reach the ledge, breathe in the crisp mountain air, a charged silence broken only by the occasional shuffle of loose rock.
Pitch two climbs by feel as much as sight, scrambling left and upward under prominent roofs—an open book of creative moves that balance risk and reward. The position here invites you to engage fully with the rock’s textures and contours, requiring steady footwork and confident gear placements.
The third pitch is where the route shines brightest—a steep, right-facing dihedral where flow meets challenge. This section calls back to climbing of the 1960s in both style and spirit, arriving at a clean 5.8 difficulty that aligns well with classic Boulder classics like Bitty Buttress itself. The final scramble to the top rewards you with broad views and that undeniable feeling of earning every foot of elevation. While the first pitch’s scraggy nature may test your resolve, the payoff comes in the solid moves and the quiet moments surrounded by Colorado’s high desert cliffs.
Protection on A’s Jax is straightforward but demands awareness: a single set of nuts and cams up to a #3 Camalot is essential, with Aliens especially useful for tricky placements. Given the loose rock on pitch one, slow and careful gear placements make the difference between a tense climb and a smooth run. Approach the climb with layered clothing options and sturdy shoes, as the altitude and exposure can shift quickly during the afternoon.
This route comes alive in spring and fall when the temperatures hover comfortably, and the sun carves warm patches along the north-facing wall. Expect shifting shadows during mid-day—which can be a welcome relief on warmer days or a chill reminder when clouds gather.
Reaching Bitty Buttress is a short, well-maintained hike from Boulder’s outskirts, where the air carries that unmistakable scent of pine mixed with canyon stone. The descent follows a straightforward walk-off, but climbers should keep an eye on footing as loose rock near the base can surprise a careless step.
A’s Jax is not a polished gem, rather a gritty adventure that rewards climbers willing to negotiate a little roughness for a classic Boulder Canyon experience. Perfect for those with some trad background looking to embrace a route that feels as much like a mini backcountry scramble as it does a climb. Come prepared, climb attentive, and leave with an authentic taste of Colorado’s climbing heritage.
The first pitch contains loose blocks that require careful movement and strategic gear placements. Always double-check anchors and avoid dislodging rock onto your belayer. The approach and descent are moderate but watch footing on loose scree near the base.
Watch for loose rock on pitch one; move deliberately and avoid dropping gear.
Aliens are particularly handy for small, awkward cracks on this route.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and potential warming rockfall hazards.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability for scrappy sections.
Bring a single set of nuts and cams up to a #3 Camalot; Aliens fit well for tricky placements, especially on the first pitch. Loose blocks require careful gear selection and confident placement.
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