"Army in Your Panties delivers a sharp, 5.11d sport climbing challenge on El Potrero Chico’s limestone face. Sharing bolts with the adjacent Deep Shag, this route tests your technical edge on a crisp 140-foot pitch that rewards focus and strength."
Army in Your Panties stands out on the sheer limestone faces of El Potrero Chico, challenging climbers with its sustained 5.11d sport difficulty wrapped in a compact, 140-foot pitch. This route shares its first bolt with Deep Shag, launching you into vertical terrain that demands precision, finger strength, and boldness. The wall’s texture is sharp and commanding, offering well-spaced bolts that protect intense sequences without crowding the route. As you climb, the limestone seems alive, edges jutting like teeth daring your grip, while dry pockets provide brief respite for your fingers.
The approach to The Pride Buttress, perched above the bustling base camp of El Potrero Chico, is straightforward but commanding—about a 20-minute hike over rocky terrain that primes you for the mental shift from trail to crux. Once at the base, the rock’s sun-bleached surface reflects the high desert’s relentless heat, encouraging early starts to avoid midday scorch. The entire area radiates the arid character of northern Mexico, with cactus spines brushing against your legs and the occasional hawk slicing the thin mountain air overhead.
Technically, this route requires confidence in sustained redpoint climbing, with moves that feel solid but punishing, especially where the rock locks into tight pinches and delicate foot placements. The anchors link with Deep Shag’s, allowing a straightforward 60-meter rope rappel, essential for a smooth retreat or resetting your attempts. This descent option minimizes time off the wall and keeps you close to the heart of the action.
Army in Your Panties thrives on its balance between exposed athleticism and accessible protection—bolt spacing is generous enough to encourage heady climbing without risking a long fall. Its single pitch makes it a perfect challenge for climbers wanting a focused, intense session, rather than the endurance of multipitch routes. The pride of El Potrero Chico’s climbing community is its ability to mix sun-drenched wildness with systematic safety, and this route delivers on both.
For those plotting their ascent, timing is key. Mornings bring the best temperature and light, while afternoons bake the rock into a less forgiving surface. Come prepared with sticky shoes optimized for sharp edges, a slim rack focused on quickdraws, and plenty of water to counter the dry environment. Be conscious of the sun’s position on the south-facing buttress—it shapes your grip security and overall stamina.
Beyond the physical demands, Army in Your Panties gifts you with a clear line against the expansive El Potrero Chico sky, the canyon views stretching toward jagged ridges that frame the horizon. This route isn’t just a climb—it’s an encounter with a mountain that watches as you push your limits, the rock holding every movement as evidence of effort and ambition. Whether you’re grinding through a first send or training your fingers for the next challenge, this climb combines precise technicality with a riveting setting.
Watch the sharpness of the limestone, especially on routes like this one; careful foot placement is essential to avoid slips. The anchors are reliable but rappelling requires attention to rope management given the shared anchors with Deep Shag.
Start early to avoid high afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle sharp edges effectively.
Carry enough water, as the approach and climb expose you to dry desert air.
Rappel can be done with one 60m rope using Deep Shag’s anchors.
This sport climb is protected entirely by bolts spaced to safeguard bold sequences. A standard rack of quickdraws suffices, and the anchors are shared with Deep Shag, permitting a single 60m rope rappel for descent.
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