"Arms Race delivers a brief but focused climbing encounter on Flatrock’s Main Face, featuring tricky moves around flakes early on and a runout finish that tests confidence and gear placement. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills within reach of St. John’s coastal crags."
Arms Race offers a compelling and focused climbing experience on Flatrock’s Main Face, where the dark vertical streak carving its way between Noggin and Spray Down dares climbers to engage with a variety of crack systems and tricky moves. This 50-foot single pitch demands both attention and savvy, especially as the route begins with a series of dynamic maneuvers around flakes and blocks that test balance and body positioning early on. The base greets you with secure placements and positive holds, allowing you to build confidence, but as you ascend, the route unfolds into a looser, more runout section. Here, protection thins, and the challenge becomes as mental as physical—requiring a calm focus and precision to navigate the upper rock that lacks generous gear opportunities.
The granite of Flatrock presents itself with a tactile coarseness, catching fingers and toes in the subtle edges and pockets that define the climb. The Main Face itself is a quiet but imposing wall that catches afternoon light, casting cool shadows through the afternoon and providing a moderate sun exposure that makes spring and fall ideal seasons to tackle this crag. Access to the approach trail is straightforward, yet the terrain shifts from soft coastal scrub into rugged stone slabs, demanding sturdy shoes and careful footing as you move closer to the base.
While Arms Race holds a moderate 5.7 PG13 rating, its character is defined by a short burst of intense focus rather than sustained difficulty. The moves around the initial flakes entice adventure seekers with playful technique, but climbers should prepare for the top half’s sparse protection and the mental demand of trusting thin gear. Bring a standard rack geared toward smaller cams and nuts, and be ready for placements that require patience and precision. Local beta advises staying calm through the upper mantle where holds become less obvious and the protection trickier to place – this is the section where many climbers will earn their ascent.
The proximity of Arms Race to other well-known routes along the Avalon Peninsula makes it a perfect addition to a day of exploring Newfoundland’s coastal climbs, combining approachable length with a technical edge. The area’s cool breezes and ocean views add subtle drama, while birds trace low arcs overhead, their calls intertwining with the scrape of rock and the rhythm of climbing breaths. Descending involves a short walk off the back, a welcome chance to shake out and reflect before returning to the trailhead or moving on to neighboring lines.
Essential tips for anyone heading to Arms Race include starting early to avoid the growing afternoon sun, carrying enough water as there is no reliable source nearby, and wearing shoes with good edging capability given the subtle granite features here. Keep a sharp eye on weather forecasts, as coastal fogs can roll in quickly, reducing visibility and making slippery rock sections more dangerous. With proper preparation, Arms Race rewards climbers with an engaging route that sharpens skills and offers a genuine taste of the Avalon Peninsula’s bold climbing spirit.
The upper half of Arms Race features less secure protection and sparse gear placements. Climbers should remain mindful of runout sections and double-check placements, especially on the mantle move toward the top where gear can be minimal.
Begin your climb early to benefit from cooler morning conditions and avoid afternoon sun exposure.
Wear shoes with firm edging to handle the subtle granite holds and flakes.
Carry adequate water, as no dependable sources exist near the base.
Check weather carefully; coastal fog can reduce visibility and grip quickly.
A standard trad rack covers most of the climb but expect less reliable protection on the upper section. Smaller cams and nuts are essential to navigate the runout finish safely.
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