"Arête de boire offers a focused, 50-foot 5.12a sport climb along a razor-sharp ridge in Quebec’s Northern Area. With reliable glue-in bolts and a technical sequence, it’s an ideal short climb for hands-on performance in a dramatic forested setting."
Arête de boire stands distinctly along a slender ridge just to the right of La Suture, offering climbers a focused burst of technical sport climbing amid Quebec’s rugged Northern Area wilderness. This one-pitch route, measuring roughly 50 feet, punches through a steep face lined with glue-in bolts, requiring precise footwork and steadfast composure. The climb’s 5.12a rating warns of its demanding sequence—powerful yet accessible for seasoned climbers hungry for a short but intense challenge. As you ascend, the arête feels alive under your fingertips, edges daring you to shift weight deliberately, while the crisp air whispers through the surrounding pines, sharpening senses and adding a tangible thrill to every move.
Accessing Arête de boire places you within the expansive Lac Long sector, a remote zone marked by rugged cliffs and clear views of Quebec’s mixed forests sprawling below. The trail to the base is straightforward but requires careful footing, winding through patches of spruce and birch trees that frame the approach with pockets of filtered sunlight. Plan your visit outside of wet spells—glue-in bolts hold up well, yet moisture can slick the rock surface, upping the risk during crux moves. Hydration is crucial here, as the climb demands brief spurts of power and sustained focus.
Climbers should bring a quickdraw rack suited for sport routes, ideally with a few longer draws to manage the arête’s sharp angles. The bolting is reliable but demands trust in your gear placements and clipping technique—there’s little room for error on this clean but exposed line. While the pitch is a single push, its power moves and technical slabbing require warm-up on nearby moderate routes before attempting the grade to avoid early burn out.
The Northern Area’s climate leans cool through much of the climbing season, with spring and early summer offering crisp, invigorating conditions that keep hands dry and energy high. Later summer days warm slowly, making early morning ascents advisable to beat both heat and afternoon wind gusts sweeping over the ridge. After topping out, the descent follows a brief walk back down the approach trail, avoiding hazardous downclimbing or rappelling.
For climbers seeking a sharp but manageable sport climb that combines a striking natural setting with crisp technical demands, Arête de boire delivers a concentrated dose of adventure that rewards precision and persistence. It’s a concise route that challenges without overwhelming—ideal for those wanting to push their limits in Quebec’s unspoiled rock country without committing to multi-pitch complexity.
While the glue-in bolts are dependable, the arête’s exposed ridge means clipping errors could lead to significant falls. Watch for slick rock patches after rain and ensure your gear is in top condition before pushing into the harder moves. Approach terrain has uneven roots and stones; approach with cautious footing especially in damp conditions.
Approach trail is moderately easy but watch for slippery roots after rain.
Climb early in the morning for best hand dryness and cool temperatures.
Warm up on nearby easier routes before attempting the 5.12a sequence.
Check weather; avoid wet or icy conditions which make footholds slick.
Equipped with solid glue-in bolts, this route requires a standard sport rack with quickdraws. Longer draws help navigate the arête's sharp angles, ensuring smooth clip transitions on exposed sections.
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