HomeClimbingArete Butler

Arete Butler: A Classic Yosemite Trad Challenge

Yosemite Valley, California United States
trad
slab crux
single pitch
exposed
flake protection
bolted crux
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Arete Butler
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Arete Butler delivers a focused trad climb in the heart of Yosemite Valley. This single-pitch route blends thin moves, an exposed slab crux protected by bolts, and secure flake climbing, making it a smart test for those honing their trad skills."

Arete Butler: A Classic Yosemite Trad Challenge

Set against the towering granite faces of Yosemite Valley, Arete Butler weaves a concise yet memorable journey for trad climbers craving a brisk test of skill and nerve. The route begins with delicate, precise moves on thin holds leading climbers to a modest ledge. Here, the climb shifts character — veering right, you engage an airy slab guarded by thoughtfully placed bolts that ease the crux. The granite beneath your fingers challenges balance and finesse, demanding steady footwork and confident gear placement. Above the slab, a protruding flake beckons, offering a change of pace into easier climbing where cams provide secure protection. A long sling can be threaded near the top, allowing for safer, creative placements as you move toward the belay station. Throughout the climb, the rock’s texture offers tactile feedback—rough yet polished in places—with sunlight tracing the edges of the arete, casting defined shadows that mark your progression. Though brief, this 115-foot pitch captures the essence of Yosemite’s trad climbing: focused, exposed, and rewarding.

Arete Butler’s single pitch fits neatly into a half-day outing, making it perfect for those looking to add quality climbing amidst a day of exploring the valley’s grandeur. The approach winds through familiar trails of the Royal Arches area, offering glimpses of the surrounding cliffs that warn of the technical demands ahead. Climbers should prepare with standard trad rack gear and a harness versatile enough for tight sling maneuvering at the upper sections. Timing your ascent during cooler morning hours aids grip and comfort, as the wall faces east and basks in early sunlight before shading in the afternoon.

The climb’s protection emphasizes a mix of bolts in the slab’s crux—offering peace of mind on the exposed moves—and traditional cams on the flake, which rewards careful placement and route-reading. Slings add versatility, especially as the route narrows near the top, inviting climbers to be thoughtful about their anchors. Descending is straightforward via rappel from a bolted anchor, but attention is required to avoid tangled ropes and loose debris. Arete Butler is a discreet gem amid Yosemite’s more famous lines, fulfilling its role as a technical, brisk climb that sharpens skills without demanding a full-day commitment. Whether you arrive solo or with partners, this route serves up a compact encounter with the valley’s vertical world.

Climber Safety

Watch out for loose rock near the top; ensure clean, solid placements on the flake and double-check sling positioning to avoid rope drag and accidental unclips. The slab’s exposure means committing to moves once started, so deliberate pace is crucial.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from cooler rock temperatures and steady morning shade.

Focus on precise footwork on the slab—balance is key to managing the exposed sequence.

Bring a standard trad rack sized to fit small to medium cams for the flake protection.

Use longer slings near the top to reduce rope drag and secure tricky placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating is honest but approachable, with the bolts softening the crux moves on the slab. The real challenge lies in maintaining control on delicate foot placements and confidently protecting the flake with cams. This climb sits comfortably for intermediate-to-advanced trad climbers looking for a brief but technical route in Yosemite’s central cliffs.

Gear Requirements

Bolts protect the slab’s crux moves, while cams are essential for the flake section above. Carry slings to thread on long placements near the top for added security.

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Tags

trad
slab crux
single pitch
exposed
flake protection
bolted crux