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Arachnophobia: A Focused Trad Challenge on Comox Lake's Main Wall

Comox, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
undercling
single pitch
roof move
technical
trad
British Columbia
Vancouver Island
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Arachnophobia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Arachnophobia offers a concise but technical 5.9 trad climb on Comox Lake’s Main Wall. Featuring tight finger jams and a physical undercling roof move, it challenges climbers with a precise, technique-focused ascent set within Vancouver Island’s tranquil forested backdrop."

Arachnophobia: A Focused Trad Challenge on Comox Lake's Main Wall

Arachnophobia stands as a compact yet demanding trad climb carved into the rugged Main Wall of Comox Lake, located on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. This route invites climbers to test their technique on a single pitch that rewards precision and boldness. From the first move, you engage with narrow finger and stem jams that escalate into a physically intense sequence beneath a projecting roof. Here, the climb shifts character; the rock demands an undercling maneuver out to the left, a move that pushes your body into an intricate dance with the stone.

Comox Lake’s Main Wall boasts a raw wilderness vibe, surrounded by the dense forestry of Vancouver Island. The forest floor muffles sounds, while birds and rustling leaves create a natural soundtrack to your ascent. The rock embraces climbers with a textured surface that demands thoughtful placements more than brute strength, typical of quality granite face climbing. Living up to its name, the route carries a subtle edge of exposure that keeps your senses alert but never overextends.

Approaching Arachnophobia requires a short yet careful walk from Comox Lake’s main access points, threading through a mixed terrain of thick underbrush and moss-lined trails. The path is well trodden but can feel remote in places, urging climbers to bring robust footwear and prepare for a brief hike with packs laden by your rack. Timing your climb to mid-morning or afternoon balances sun exposure and shade, as the wall’s orientation offers sunlit warmth without relentless heat, perfect for steady friction on the rock.

Protection on the route calls for a standard rack, where reliable placements in parallel cracks and shallow corners yield security through your ascent. As the crack pitches shift under the roof, consider smaller cams and nuts to cover more technical spots effectively. Though the route is a single pitch, its rating at 5.9 encompasses a crux that feels slightly firm, especially at the roof section where maintaining body tension and footwork precision becomes critical. Compared to other local climbs in Comox Lake’s Main Wall, Arachnophobia offers a focused challenge with an emphasis on crack climbing skills.

After topping out, descending is straightforward but requires care. A short walk-off down a loose scree slope leads back to the base, making your exit as direct as your climb. Climbers should pay attention to rockfall hazards on descent, especially during wetter seasons when moss and moisture can turn footing treacherous.

Whether you’re honing crack techniques or seeking a moderately taxing climb in a serene forest setting, Arachnophobia combines that blend of raw wilderness and skillful movement. Prepare your gear, stay aware of the route’s tactical moves, and you’ll find this trad gem on Vancouver Island rewarding for the effort invested.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the descent scree and exercise caution beneath the roof where falls could be awkward due to the steep overhang.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for precise jam placements.

Start your climb mid-morning to catch optimal sunlight without overheating.

Check weather before your trip; wet rock makes the roof section especially slippery.

Plan your descent carefully — scree and loose rock are common just below the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Arachnophobia feels true to its technical demands, with a firm crux beneath the roof that requires both body tension and precise footwork. Climbers familiar with local routes on the Main Wall will find it a focused test of crack climbing without excessive commitment.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers most placements efficiently, with a focus on smaller cams and nuts essential for tricky jams under the roof section.

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Tags

finger crack
undercling
single pitch
roof move
technical
trad
British Columbia
Vancouver Island