"Aqualung serves as a rewarding second pitch to nearby classics on Suicide Rock’s Buttress of Cracks. This 5.9 trad route blends finger crack finesse with secure flake steps, offering a focused challenge on solid granite."
Aqualung offers an engaging second pitch climb on the Buttress of Cracks’ left side, situated within the iconic Suicide Rock area of California’s Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks climbing zone. This single-pitch traditional route stretches approximately 50 feet, serving as a solid extension for those cruising past the popular Frustration and Pass Time climbs on the same formation. The climb begins from a bolted anchor; from here, edge right onto a narrow ledge that cradles two prominent flake blocks. These shelves demand careful footwork and deliberate movement as you navigate upward. From the flakes, a short, striking finger crack invites your fingers to find purchase. It’s a neat seam that requires control and steady balance, rewarding those who favor precise crack technique.
As you ascend, stay to the right of a lone tree that clings to the rock face—a natural waypoint guiding your line. From this point, the pitch angles up and then gradually swings left toward a secure bolted anchor, offering a reassuring end to the climb. Protection is straightforward but requires tactful placements primarily in finger-sized cracks. Expect to place your own gear with care; there are no extensive fixed protections beyond the anchors.
When it’s time to descend, two rappels from bolted anchors bring you safely back to the base. Alternatively, for those familiar with the area, rappelling Insomnia with a 70-meter rope from the opposite side also works as a descent strategy, offering a longer but equally reliable exit. The rock’s texture here is typical of the region—solid granite with enough friction to inspire confidence but requiring focused foot and hand placements.
The climb’s moderate 5.9 rating feels accessible to many but holds subtle challenges, especially on the finger crack section that can catch climbers off guard. Offered in a quiet corner of one of California’s premier climbing destinations, Aqualung provides a well-balanced blend of technical movement and solid protection. Whether you’re linking up pitches on Suicide Rock or seeking a focused challenge on a single pitch, this route rewards preparation and thoughtful climbing. Ideal for late morning to afternoon when the face is shaded, it’s a route that welcomes time-conscious climbers ready to explore the quality granite and the rugged ridgeline of the Buttress of Cracks.
Local conditions favor dry weather; avoid climbing after heavy rain as the rock can retain moisture longer in shaded cracks. Aqualung’s short approach makes it easy to reach from the main Suicide Rock trailhead, requiring around 20 minutes of moderate hiking that crosses classic chaparral terrain punctuated by hardy pines and scrub oaks. Carry enough water and wear sturdy footwear—this access hike can be hot and exposed during peak summer hours. For those pacing their day, combining Aqualung with nearby climbs ensures a fulfilling outing capped by sweeping views over the Inland Empire and desert horizon beyond.
Watch your gear placements in the finger crack—while the rock is solid, this pitch demands careful pro to avoid long falls. Descents require attention to rope management on the two-bolt rappels and awareness of rope stretch if choosing the longer rappel on Insomnia.
Start from the bolted anchor and move right onto the ledge to access flake steps safely.
Place protection primarily in finger cracks; bring a full rack with an emphasis on smaller nuts and cams.
Plan descents via two single-rope rappels or use a 70m rope on Insomnia’s side for a longer rappel.
Approach on well-marked trails, but stay hydrated and prepare for sun exposure on the hike in.
Bring finger-sized protection for gear placements along the crack sections. Fixed bolts hold anchors at start and finish, but pro placements are essential through the climb’s core.
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