HomeClimbingApollo 13

Apollo 13: A Bold Trad and Sport Climb on Galaxy Buttress

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad gear
multi-pitch
river access
face climbing
slab
Sea to Sky
water level rappel
mixed protection
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Apollo 13
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Apollo 13 demands technical mastery from water level to Star Chek’s ledges. This three-pitch trad and sport climb blends sustained face climbing with slabby crack work, set within the dramatic granite walls of Galaxy Buttress."

Apollo 13: A Bold Trad and Sport Climb on Galaxy Buttress

Rising from the water’s edge at the base of Star Chek, Apollo 13 challenges climbers with an engaging blend of trad and sport pitches framed by the raw, vertical granite of the Galaxy Buttress. The route begins with a heart-pounding rappel into a narrow belay zone just above the water line, demanding a careful eye on springtime flows when swollen streams can drench the entry and cloak the otherwise stable boulders below. The opening pitch sets the tone—a sustained 35 meters of technical 5.10c/d moves requiring firm footwork off a solitary pinnacle boulder. Climbers pull through a small roof before sliding into a bolted groove that leads to a comfortable ledge, a welcome moment to breathe and recalibrate.

From there, the route lightens in difficulty but gains in character as the second pitch, rated 5.10a/b, ascends clean slabs. Crack systems invite hands and feet to test precise placements, and a short traverse leftward passes bolts and tricky face holds towards a large ledge that perches one pitch shy of Star Chek’s summit. An eye-catching but unstable guillotine flake looms to the left, adding an element of awareness about the rock’s natural quirks. Finally, the third pitch eases to 5.8/9, delivering a short but spirited scramble up polished slabs that complete the climb.

Approaching Apollo 13 means engaging with its dynamic waterside setting. The river below murmurs and dares, its ripples reflecting the towering granite walls as you prepare your gear. The air carries a fresh, wet scent and the occasional call of distant birds. This route requires not just technical climbing skill but also respect for the shifting conditions—and a readiness to adjust plans if water levels rise.

Pragmatic gear is crucial. While the bolted sections offer security, expect to supplement with a couple of medium to large wire nuts and cams up to 2.5 inches. A rack with 8 quickdraws and a confident hand in placing pro will keep you protected. The descent, typically a rappel, demands vigilance around wet rock and a slow, controlled approach down the granite face.

Apollo 13 offers a compact but intense climbing experience for those who relish a mix of traditions and sport moves in a scenic, riverside environment. The multi-pitch route suits climbers comfortable managing varied protection and reading subtle rock textures, inviting adventurers to step confidently into the pulse of Sea to Sky’s wild granite corridors.

Climber Safety

Be cautious rappelling into the belay at water level—high spring flows can submerge boulders and create slippery, unstable footing. Inspect water conditions carefully before committing. The big flake on pitch two should be treated with caution as it may loosen without warning.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Check spring water levels before starting; high flows can make the base dangerous.

Bring a lightweight rack with a focus on medium-large cams for tricky placements.

Start early to avoid afternoon wet rock from nearby river mist and shade conditions.

Watch the large hanging flake on pitch 2—it can be unstable or may have fallen.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d grade reflects a stiff crux on the first pitch with sustained technical moves demanding clean technique. Subsequent pitches ease slightly but maintain engagement through slab and crack sequences. The grade sits true, offering a challenging yet fair test for advanced climbers familiar with mixed protection routes in the Sea to Sky corridor.

Gear Requirements

Prepare 8 quickdraws plus a selection of medium to large wire nuts and cams, up to 2.5 inches, to handle the mixed trad and sport protection. Rappel anchors are fixed but monitor conditions near the water for safety.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Apollo 13 and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad gear
multi-pitch
river access
face climbing
slab
Sea to Sky
water level rappel
mixed protection