"Ape Man Hop offers a sharp 5.10a traditional challenge on the upper slabs of Mary Ann’s Face in Joshua Tree. With limited bolts and a striking roof crux, this climb demands focus and precise gear placements in a sun-soaked desert setting."
Ape Man Hop stakes its claim on the rugged upper slab of Mary Ann's Face, demanding precise footwork and steady nerves on a steep, exposed face within Joshua Tree National Park's Wonderland of Rocks. Just to the left of the familiar Route 66’s hand and fist crack, this single-pitch ascent threads past two well-placed bolts before negotiating a thin roof that dares climbers to commit leftward to continue upwards. The rock here is solid yet sculpted, with edges that reward careful smearing and a dynamic movement that breaks the slab’s rhythm. The crack you bypass whispers of more straightforward options, but Ape Man Hop insists on testing balance and finger strength against a sparse rack.
At 60 feet, the climb condenses commitment into a brief but fiery sequence, perfect for climbers looking to push their 5.10a skills in a quiet corner of Joshua Tree where the sun warms sharp quartzite surfaces and desert breezes offer moments of relief. The roof section adds a physical crux—leaning out and trusting minimal protection before launching into the final moves. Bolts are limited but solid, designed to back up traditional gear placements mainly on smaller cams and nuts. This route earns modest stars from the local community, but its position and style attract those eager to step beyond the more trafficked climbs.
Planning your ascent means arriving early or late in the day, as the south-facing slab can bake under the midday sun. Footwear with sticky, precise soles will make friction moves on the slab more manageable. Carry a slim standard trad rack complemented by quickdraws to clip the two bolts confidently. Water and sun protection are essentials—the desert air is dry and ready to sap energy. The approach offers a gentle narrative of Joshua Tree’s iconic landscape—a patchwork of granite boulders and sparse vegetation that frame your commitment.
After topping out, runners generally downclimb or rappel back to the base; knowing the descent route in advance saves time and energy. This modest but demanding climb pairs well with nearby sport and trad routes in Wonderland North, offering a rounded day of varied technical challenges. Ape Man Hop is a testament to Joshua Tree’s character—adventurous, exposed, and unapologetically direct.
Limited fixed protection requires careful gear placements; the roof section demands secure clipping and precise movements to avoid falls. Also, desert sun exposure can increase dehydration risk—carry ample water and avoid peak heat hours.
Start early or late to avoid the midday desert heat on the south-facing slab.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize friction on the smooth granite.
Bring quickdraws for clipping the two bolts and a standard rack for small gear placements.
Familiarize yourself with the downclimb or rappel route before topping out.
Two 5/16" bolts protect key sections, but a slim standard trad rack with small cams and nuts is critical for safe progression around the roof and to the anchors.
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