5.10a PG13, Sport
Donner Summit
California ,United States
"Anxiety Attack tests patience and precision on an exposed granite face at Donner Summit. The crux demands thoughtful movement, while extended bolt spacing challenges your mental focus."
Anxiety Attack on Donner Summit's Grouse Slab offers a sharp, focused challenge for climbers ready to test their patience and finesse on California's iconic granite. This single-pitch sport route stretches 85 feet along a delicate face that demands precise footwork and mental steadiness from the very first moves. The crux sits low, where the rock’s subtle holds tease out a complex sequence, forcing climbers to abandon a direct path and engage in thoughtful zig-zags to unlock a 5.10a level of difficulty. It’s a climb that rewards resolve and calm, especially as the bolts spread wider beyond the third clip, letting tension creep in with the exposure. The climb steadies after that point, offering easier climbing that feels like a welcome reprieve, yet the extended run between bolts serves as a constant reminder to stay focused.
Situated in the storied I-80 Corridor near Lake Tahoe, the East Face of Grouse Slab combines solid granite texture with clean bolts spaced judiciously to call on precise smearing and hand holds. This route leans into the technical rather than brute force, making it a perfect pursuit for those who find exhilaration in mastering balance under pressure. Anchors with chains at the top guarantee a confident finish, while the five draws needed keep your rack light and fast-moving.
Approaching the climb means a brief but purposeful hike through Donner Summit’s open granite environs. The trail is straightforward, welcoming climbers with crisp mountain air and panoramic views that tease the larger Sierra peaks in the distance. Early morning or late afternoon visits bring ideal light and cooler temperatures, lending extra grip and comfort on the warm, sun-exposed slab.
For those planning a visit, bring shoes sensitively designed for face climbing with a reliable edging capacity, and pack adequate hydration and a light layer; conditions can shift quickly. Patience at the crux unlocks the sequence, making the experience less about power and more about strategy and calm movement. While the runout past the third bolt can unsettle less experienced climbers, this stretch tests your mental control as much as your physical skills. Practicing controlled breathing and steady positioning will turn perceived anxiety into focused flow.
Anxiety Attack is a singular test of mental and technical discipline in one push. It’s a route that doesn’t overpromise thrills but delivers a carefully measured challenge that leaves you sharper, steadier, and ready for more. In a climbing landscape full of bold moves and flashier lines, here you find a purer conversation between climber and slab—a quiet holdout against haste where every move counts and calm is king.
The spacing between bolts beyond the third clip can unsettle climbers who aren’t comfortable with moderate runouts. Take time on each move and avoid rushing through this section to maintain control and confidence.
Approach early or late in the day to avoid heat and improve grip on the slab.
Focus on delicate footwork at the crux rather than brute strength.
Stay calm during the long runout between bolts 3 and 4—it’s mental more than physical.
Bring shoes optimized for edging to navigate the slab’s technical face.
Five quickdraws suffice for this climb, with chained anchors securing the top. Light rack to stay agile is advised.
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