"Anus offers a punchy trad climb with a challenging overhanging start that feels like a boulder problem. Ideal for climbers ready to refine protection skills, it shifts to an easy corner leading to a solid belay with a backdrop of Les Fesses’ rugged terrain."
The Anus route in Les Fesses near Val-David offers a straightforward yet demanding introduction to trad climbing with a vivid personality carved into its steep initial challenges. From the very start, the climb tests your composure with a bold, overhanging bulge that behaves like a boulder problem. This crux requires precise body positioning and a tentative reach before you can place your first protection—a large cam—about 10 feet up. The steepness of the approach and the potential for an awkward fall here mean that having a steady spotter is more than just helpful; it's essential for building confidence as you push through this vertical gatekeeper.
Beyond the opening struggle, the route eases into a more manageable corner that moves through patches of vegetation—nature lending ease and quiet companionship. This smoother section leads to a plateau and then onward to the belay station, whose bolting status is uncertain but where you’ll find a secure stance to regroup. The climb spans just a single pitch but demands respect in its protection and approach, especially considering the steep ground below.
Located in the Laurentians of Quebec, the scene around Les Fesses is rugged yet inviting, offering a remote feel while still within reach of Val-David’s charm. The granite here carries the weight of northern seasons, and the mixed terrain—from rocky ledges to green edges—frames the climb with quiet natural energy that both challenges and calms.
Gear-wise, the crux protects best with a #5 cam for that first hard placement. A #4 can work but requires careful placement to avoid risk. Following that, a regular trad rack handles the rest of the line comfortably. The route’s short length balances intensity without overwhelming, making it a crisp exercise in focused climbing.
For those planning the ascent, approach carefully: the steep ground demands solid footing and a measured mindset. Keep hydrating, check your gear meticulously, and consider timing your climb to avoid damp conditions that could soften holds. The belay’s ambiguity suggests bringing extra gear just in case to anchor safely. This climb fits climbers comfortable with trad techniques and looking to hone skills in a low-commitment, high-focus environment.
In all, Anus delivers a blend of commitment and simplicity. It challenges from the first move yet rewards with a calm corner and a chance to practice protection skills in a quiet pocket of Quebec’s climbing landscape. Whether you’re sharpening your lead skills or seeking a memorable single-pitch climb, this route offers a grounded adventure with precise demands on both body and gear.
The steep ground under the crux calls for extra caution—falls here can be awkward and dangerous. Ensure your spotter is attentive and gear is well-placed before committing to the opening moves. Watch for loose vegetation on the easier section to avoid slipping near the belay.
Bring a solid spotter for the steep and exposed start to boost confidence.
Double-check your protection placements early, especially the first cam placement.
Wear shoes with precise edging for the initial overhang moves.
Plan your climb for dry weather to ensure good friction on the holds.
Start with a #5 cam for the first tricky placement about 10 feet up, where the steep overhang creates a bouldery crux. A #4 cam may work but requires cautious placement. Afterward, a standard trad rack manages the remainder of the climb comfortably.
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