Ant Jemima offers a compact but rewarding traditional climb on the solid granite faces of Crystal Lake Wall, located in the Angeles National Forest. The route begins with two inviting low-angle cracks; choosing the right-hand crack leads to an engaging 5.6 start that warms you into the climb effortlessly. As you ascend, the crack stretches and widens, challenging your footwork on a tricky left-side slab that demands attention and balance—here is the first crux. Pressing your body into the widening crack, you inch upward using jamming techniques until you reach a secure handjam at its end. This sets you up for a move out onto the left face, where the angle steepens. The rock remains excellent throughout, offering solid holds and clean lines that reward focus and finesse.

The second crux reveals itself on a short but vertical section littered with loose blocks. Careful navigating is essential here before you reach a large tree that serves as both a natural anchor and the rappel point. The descent utilizes a single rappel from this tree, offering a smooth exit after your climb. Protection is straightforward; a single rack of cams from .4 to 3 will cover your needs. The first placement usually goes to a chockstone tucked inside the wide crack section—using a double-length sling here is wise, and some climbers add a second sling for extra security. Some gear may feel less dependable near the top, so test placements carefully.

The climb’s concise length of around 80 feet makes it perfect for a half-day mission or as a warm-up on a firmer climbing day. The approach is manageable, with a short walk from the trailhead through pine-scented air and occasional views of the Angeles crest. The wall sits advantageously in the morning sun but offers shade in the late afternoon, making spring and fall ideal seasons to climb when temperatures are mild.

Ant Jemima’s charm lies in its straightforward but thoughtful sequence of moves, balanced by enough technical presence to keep even intermediate trad climbers engaged. This route, while often overlooked, delivers a pure granite experience with minimal crowds and the chance to move confidently on crack and face systems. Whether you’re sharpening crack skills or simply looking for a dependable line with a bit of spice, this climb extends a quiet invitation to test your jams and smears in a classic Southern California setting.