"Ant Crack, Right on Phantom Spires offers a precise 60-foot trad climb that balances moderate 5.8 crack moves with a single tricky chimney. Its shaded northern aspect and focused gear placements make it a practical choice for climbers refining their trad technique close to Lake Tahoe."
Ant Crack, Right is a straightforward yet gratifying one-pitch trad climb set on the shaded northern face of Gorilla Rock's Phantom Spires. This 60-foot route weaves around a clean right-facing crack, offering an inviting challenge for climbers comfortable with moderate 5.8 moves peppered with a single awkward chimney section rated 5.6. Unlike overly technical routes, Ant Crack balances approachable climbing with practical route-finding, making it ideal for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without the stress of complex sequences or overwhelming exposure. The rock’s texture is firm and consistent, providing secure friction underfoot, while the north-facing aspect keeps the route cool, even on warmer days, inviting climbers to linger and savor the climb.
The protection calls for smaller gear, where brass nuts and thin hand-sized cams glide into narrow placements that reward precise placements and a steady approach. This subtle gear focus encourages climbers to engage fully with the route’s nuances, fostering a deeper connection between body, rock, and protection. Though short, the approach is practical; hikers follow a manageable trail leading through forested lower slopes to reach Gorilla Rock’s base in about 20 minutes. The surrounding area, defined by the Highway 50 corridor near Lake Tahoe, offers a blend of quiet wilderness and accessible roads, making it a perfect day trip for adventurers seeking solitude without remoteness.
Rappelling off is straightforward via ring anchors on the north side, while top-rope setups can be arranged from the south side’s more established anchors. This dual descent option provides confidence to parties of varying experience. Climbers will appreciate the balanced offering Ant Crack delivers: a mix of technical curiosity with manageable risk, set against the cool, pine-scented backdrop of the Sierra Nevada. As a result, it’s a reliable step for trad climbers progressing beyond beginner climbs or anyone craving a quick but rejuvenating ascent under dappled mountain light.
Mind the limited placements in the chimney and small cracks—careful, deliberate gear choices are crucial. The north-facing aspect keeps the rock cool but sometimes damp, so check conditions to avoid slippery holds. Rappel using ring anchors on the north side; double-check anchors before descent.
Wear sticky shoes with robust toe edges to handle the subtle seams and crack textures.
Approach via the established trail from the Highway 50 side; expect about 20 minutes hike over forest terrain.
Use gloves or tape for comfort in the chimney section to avoid abrasion from tight chimney moves.
Plan climbs for cooler parts of the day, as the north-facing route maintains shade but can stay damp early morning.
The route demands precise protection with a focus on smaller brass nuts and finger-sized cams catering to thin crack placements. Larger cams won’t fit well, so bring a well-rounded rack of smaller pro to stay safe and confident.
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