HomeClimbingAnother Dimension

Another Dimension: Tackling Gimli’s West Face

Nelson, Canada
trad
alpine
multi-pitch
route-finding
5.10d
granite
Bolted belay
technical gear placements
Length: 900 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Another Dimension
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Another Dimension scales Mount Gimli’s west face with a demanding sequence of eight pitches, featuring technical climbing and challenging route-finding. This alpine trad line calls for solid gear skills and route awareness amid striking British Columbia scenery."

Another Dimension: Tackling Gimli’s West Face

Carved into the rugged west face of Mount Gimli, Another Dimension challenges climbers with its sharp blend of technical trad pitches and alpine exposure. This demanding 900-foot route stands as a test of precision and stamina, drawing those ready to navigate its intricate path across the Valhalla Mountains. Travelers will find themselves threading through a complex line that demands not just strength, but careful route-finding—a puzzle that rewards the attentive and prepared.

The climb unfolds over eight pitches, five of which scale the 5.10 range, with the second pitch standing out as the crux at a bold 5.10d. This section jabs into the rock with a tightening grip, requiring climbers to lean into delicate footwork and confident gear placements. The exposure here is tangible, as the mountain’s granite face feels alive—breathing with wind, catching sun and shadow, pushing the climber to stay sharply focused.

Protection is straightforward but can be challenging; the route calls for a full rack of cams ranging from small through massive #4 sizes, with a recommendation to double up on the larger gear. These placements are essential, not only for safety but to manage the route’s unpredictable nature, where solid pro is a must amid occasional loose blockiness.

Approaching the climb starts with a trek through the Kootenays’ dense, spruce-dry forest floor, whose whispering needles and moss-coated roots mark the transition into mountainous silence. Expect a 30-40 minute hike uphill from the parking area, following faint trails and river crossings, before arriving at the base where the vertical challenge looms overhead. Use GPS coordinates 49.7655 latitude and -117.6478 longitude to pinpoint the start.

The climb’s position on the west face means afternoon sun illuminates the rock, ideal for those aiming to warm up early pitches but requiring awareness of potential overheating in summer. Late spring through early fall offers the best weather window. Early season climbs can be cold, with snow patches clinging to higher ledges, while late season may bring variable weather patterns, including afternoon thunderstorms common in this region.

Descent involves a series of rappels from bolted anchor stations, with careful attention needed on rappel angles and rope drag. The belayed anchors at pitch four provide a critical staging point, but climbers should be ready for technical navigation on the way down. Loose rock and narrow ledges mean staying alert on every move post-climb.

Another Dimension balances gritty alpine adventure with trad climbing’s gear-dependent challenge, delivering a route that keeps you thinking as much as climbing. It’s a rewarding journey for those who enjoy route-finding puzzles combined with solid 5.10 climbing, set against the striking isolation of British Columbia’s Valhalla Mountains.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on route-find sections and maintain careful footing on exposed ledges. The descent rappels require precise setup; confirm anchor integrity before lowering. Afternoon storms can develop quickly in summer—plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length900 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west face.

Use GPS coordinates 49.7655, -117.6478 for precise trailhead location.

Double-check all gear placements on crux pitches for added security.

Be prepared for variable weather typical of the Valhalla Mountains; pack layers.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade on the second pitch is the route’s stiffest challenge, requiring clean technique and confident protection placement. Overall, the rating feels fair but leans toward stiff compared to nearby alpine climbs, especially given the route-finding demands alongside sustained 5.10 climbing.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full rack of cams from small to large, doubling up on bigger sizes up to #4 to handle tricky placements and ensure solid protection throughout the route.

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Tags

trad
alpine
multi-pitch
route-finding
5.10d
granite
Bolted belay
technical gear placements