HomeClimbingAngel's Approach

Angel's Approach: Classic Slab Trad Climbing on Glacier Point Apron

Yosemite Village, California United States
slab
trad gear
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
Yosemite
finger cracks
friction climbing
overlap
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Angel's Approach
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Angel's Approach delivers 400 feet of classic slab trad climbing on Yosemite’s Glacier Point Apron. Combining bolt-protected moves with natural gear placements, this three-pitch route balances friction technique with route-finding in a rewarding, moderately challenging setting."

Angel's Approach: Classic Slab Trad Climbing on Glacier Point Apron

Angel's Approach offers an authentic Yosemite trad climbing experience on the Glacier Point Apron’s right side, presenting 400 feet of clean slab that calls for steady feet and sharp focus. This multi-pitch route stretches over three pitches, combining technical friction moves with thoughtful gear placements amid a setting that hums with the valley’s energy. From the first pitch, climbers find themselves drawn into smooth granite etched with bolts—some refreshed in 2008—guiding you upward towards a large solution hole. Here, you must decide whether to skirt right on easier terrain or pass directly through the hole before moving right again. The first belay anchors await just below a distinctive overlap, marking a natural pause to appreciate the slick slab and the gorge below.

The second pitch transitions into more nuanced friction climbing along a left edge of flakes, demanding balance and gentle footwork. Between two opposing thin flakes, there’s an opportunity to place some reliable finger-sized protection, a welcome relief in an otherwise bolt-heavy route. Keep your eyes on the slender seam right of the major overlap as you push upward to the next two-bolt anchor. The final pitch eases slightly in difficulty but doesn’t lose character, edging right to what’s known as Lucifer’s Ledges. Here, pure friction climbing on slightly less steep but still demanding granite tests your ability to read the rock and maintain composure.

This route attracts climbers who appreciate clean slab with a moderate challenge (YDS 5.9 PG13) that requires both bolt trust and traditional gear savvy. The replacement bolts signal a maintained but wild route, so it’s wise to bring a rack that includes nuts and cams up to 2 inches to protect the flake sections. Given the route’s location on the valley’s south side apron, begin early in the day to avoid full afternoon sun and the increasing heat, especially in warmer months. The approach, while straightforward, requires crossing some talus and granite slabs, demanding stable footwear and attention to footing.

Angel's Approach stands as a compelling option for climbers seeking a balanced pitch layout (three pitches, moderate length) in one of Yosemite’s less crowded corners. It offers a rewarding combination of friction technique and route-finding that feels both classic and approachable, with the added benefit of fewer crowds compared to Yosemite’s more famous walls. Being part of the greater Glacier Point Apron region, this climb rewards those with a steady head for slab and a preparation mindset for variable protection. Its blend of bolt security and natural gear placements makes it ideal for trad climbers transitioning to mixed protection or sport routes who want to sharpen their slab skills.

For safety, remain alert around the solution hole and overlap sections where footing can be tricky, and rock can feel slick underfoot. The descent usually involves a walk-off or easy downclimb, but scouting the route down beforehand ensures a smooth exit. Ultimately, Angel’s Approach invites climbers to embrace the granite’s quiet challenge while soaking in the panoramic views that Yosemite grants on every push upward.

Climber Safety

Carefully negotiate the solution hole and overlap sections where footholds can be slick and less obvious. Despite fresh bolts, some flake placements require solid gear and vigilance. Avoid climbing after rain or when the rock is damp to reduce slipping risks.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.

Wear sticky-soled shoes with good edging capability for the friction slab.

Pack a rack with a mix of trad gear—nuts and cams are crucial despite the bolts.

Scout the approach carefully; granite slabs and talus require mindful footing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating reflects a route that feels moderate but demands attention to footwork and gear strategy. The PG13 component warns of sections where fall potential exists on less-protected flakes, especially pitch two. Compared to nearby classic slabs, Angel’s Approach feels approachable but carries stiff moments that challenge slab climbers transitioning from sport routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack with nuts and cams up to 2 inches to supplement mostly bolt protection; about half the bolts were replaced in 2008. Expect some tricky placements on flakes and edges alongside solid bolt runs.

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Tags

slab
trad gear
multi-pitch
bolt-protected
Yosemite
finger cracks
friction climbing
overlap