HomeClimbingAnd Grooving Was Grooving

And Grooving Was Grooving at Zippy Rock

Twentynine Palms,California ,United States
crack climb
water grooves
dense brush start
single pitch
desert granite
medium cams
Grade: 5.9
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
And Grooving Was Grooving
Aspect
South Facing

And Grooving Was Grooving

5.9, Trad

Twentynine Palms

California ,United States

Overview

"And Grooving Was Grooving offers 80 feet of focused trad climbing through shallow water grooves layered with natural jams and a challenging start amidst dense desert brush. A solid 5.9 that highlights Joshua Tree’s raw granite and unique landscape, perfect for trad enthusiasts seeking a practical, hands-on climb."

And Grooving Was Grooving at Zippy Rock

At Joshua Tree National Park, a route named And Grooving Was Grooving invites climbers to an 80-foot trad climb woven through the granite’s natural channels. From the moment you reach the base, you’ll meet a stubborn screen of "cats claw" bushes—a natural guardian challenging your approach. The start demands care as you navigate through this dense scrub, stepping lightly but decisively into the groove of the climb. Two right-leaning water grooves carve their way up the face, shallow and inviting. Here, the rock feels alive under your hands and feet: the grooves urge you to jam and palm with precision, anchoring your movement in tight spaces that shift rhythmically as you ascend.

Midway, the climb demands a shift in technique as you meet an aplite dike cutting diagonally across the upper face. The dike’s sharp, contrasting texture offers a new line of movement. This section asks for steadiness and a confident eye for protection options. Although the upper face stands bare of direct protection, your eyes find small to medium cams fitting snugly in the water grooves below, where the rock’s natural fissures hold your gear with trustworthy firmness.

Finishing with an anchor placement similar to the well-known nearby climbs Shongo Pavi and Hans Solo, this route reveals its unpolished character: no flashy holds, no dramatic overhangs—just a straightforward, thoughtful dance with the stone. The surrounding desert landscape breathes in the warm California sun, the dry air carrying subtle scents of sage and creosote. A steady breeze offers relief as you work your way upward, the scrubby vegetation occasionally brushing your arms, reminding you that Joshua Tree’s environment is as tough as it is timeless.

For those preparing to climb this line, sturdy footwear with grippy soles, plenty of water, and patience to handle the starting bushes are essential. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon can mean the difference between battling the desert heat or climbing in pleasant shade. The single pitch’s moderate 5.9 rating feels solid but accessible, with the crux less physical and more about maintaining focus through the start and gear placements. It fits perfectly for trad climbers looking for a quiet route away from busier walls, offering a taste of Joshua Tree’s rugged charm with a practical challenge.

From the approach trail that winds through scrubland to the clean, compact granite, this climb remains a low-key highlight in the Zippy Rock area. A brief but engaging adventure for climbers looking to test crack climbing skills while absorbing the desert’s stark beauty. Proper preparation and respect for the route’s natural defenses will turn this scramble and groove into a smooth, rewarding ascent.

Climber Safety

The scramble through the dense "cats claw" vegetation can scratch and snag gear or skin—wear long clothing and move deliberately. The upper face lacks fixed protection, so secure medium cams before committing to moves above. Also, watch for loose rock around the anchor area.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach through thick "cats claw" bushes—wear long sleeves to protect your arms.

Start early in the day to avoid climbing in intense desert heat.

Bring plenty of water; Joshua Tree’s arid climate can dehydrate you quickly.

Scout anchor placements carefully—the upper anchor relies on medium cams in tighter cracks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, this route presents a straightforward but earned rating. The crux isn’t in technical moves but negotiating the overgrown start and carefully placing protection in shallow grooves. Compared to nearby climbs, it leans practical rather than purely athletic, with most of the challenge coming from gear management and steady crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Small to medium cams work best in the water grooves for protection. The upper section is largely unprotected, requiring confident climbing. Medium cams are necessary to build a secure anchor at the top crack.

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Tags

crack climb
water grooves
dense brush start
single pitch
desert granite
medium cams