"Anal Sex offers a sharp 5.8 X trad climb on Middle Spire’s granite, threading a tunnel-like face just left of the Regular Route. It’s an accessible yet nerve-testing climb, perfect for climbers wanting a brief but memorable pitch in the Lake Tahoe area."
Set against the stark granite of Middle Spire, this single-pitch trad climb known as Anal Sex offers an engaging, straightforward challenge for climbers who appreciate a low-commitment route with character. Found just left of the more trafficked Regular Route, this climb begins at a distinctly triangular boulder at the base, inviting you to trace a vertical line straight up through a shallow tunnel feature that grants both rhythm and flow to the ascent.
The terrain is firm and reliable, with no fixed protection available, which demands a confident hand in placing micro pro or nuts in pockets and seams. While the technical difficulty sits around 5.8, the "X" rating warns of unprotected sections that call for steady nerves and precise movement. Despite this, the climb flows with a surprisingly enjoyable simplicity that feels more like a polished solo than a high-stakes grind.
The granite face here absorbs the warm California sun, offering ideal conditions late morning through the afternoon, especially on clear days. The surrounding landscape stretches across the Highway 50 Corridor, framed by Lake Tahoe’s rugged backdrop and a sparse forest ringing the lower approach. Sound carries softly in this open amphitheater, where the occasional rustling of pines blends with the deliberate tap of your rack against rock.
Access is relatively straightforward. A short hike from established parking leads you through uneven terrain with granite slabs and loose small debris—footwear with good grip is essential. The climb itself is compact, making it a perfect stop for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills or warm up before tackling longer routes in the Phantom Spires cluster. Though brief, the route demands respect and focus, especially given the sparse protection.
As a low-fuss route with a unique line, Anal Sex delivers a twist on the usual Lake Tahoe traditions: less crowded, more intimate, and with a hint of a teasing tunnel that guides you upward. This climb won’t fill a full afternoon, but it certainly rewards those keen on combining a pulse-raising move with the satisfaction of earning every hold.
Plan for moderate temperatures and keep an eye on weather patterns that might bring slick granite or afternoon winds. Pack a minimal rack emphasizing small cams and nuts, and remember that the descent requires careful retreat down the approach path rather than shortcutting via risky downclimbs. All in all, this is a small but spirited gem in the shadow of Middle Spire’s towering neighbors.
With no bolts and limited natural protection, it’s critical to place solid gear and maintain situational awareness. Loose debris on the approach and exposed sections near the top require vigilance to avoid slips or rockfall.
Start at the distinctive triangular boulder marking the route base.
Footwear with solid grip is essential for the granite approach slabs.
Approach during late morning or afternoon for optimal sun exposure and dry rock.
Plan your descent via the approach trail—avoid downclimbing exposed sections.
No fixed protection; climbers must rely on small nuts and micros for gear placements. A light rack with a focus on micro cams is recommended due to limited natural protection opportunities.
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