"An Audience with the Emperor offers a sharp, bouldery hand traverse and delicate crack climbing on Squamish’s Petrifying Wall. This single-pitch route blends technical challenges with thoughtful protection, ideal for climbers ready to engage with precise moves amid striking alpine surroundings."
An Audience with the Emperor stands as a bold, single-pitch trad climb tucked into the rugged Petrifying Wall within Squamish's famed Murrin Park. From the first moves, this route demands precise, thoughtful climbing—bouldery and sequential at the start, requiring a stick clip to bypass the initial challenge safely. The effort soon transitions into a hand traverse, secured by well-placed bolts that provide confidence amid exposed moves. Beyond this traverse lies a short, finger-sized crack that leads you into a small alcove, an intimate pocket in the rock where focus sharpens. Exiting this recess, climbers push upward over a bulging lip to meet the first two bolts of the adjacent "Family Ties" route, ending on a solid chain anchor perched above a prominent right-trending ramp along the Pet Wall.
The rock itself offers demanding technical climbing combined with a sequence that tests both strength and finesse. Gear placements up to 0.75 inches protect most of the route, with five bolts complementing traditional pro along the way. The Pet Wall's granite wraps the climber in cool mountain air and scattered sunlight, with the forested valley far below serving as a quiet reminder of the vertical challenge just conquered.
This climb carries a quiet reverence, dedicated to Marc Andre Leclerc and his time soloing the Emperor Face of Mount Robson. Each move can be felt as a tribute, a moment of presence echoing his raw connection to alpine adventure. The route may be short at 60 feet, but it demands full attention, making it perfectly suited for experienced climbers eager for a sharply technical push in one of Squamish’s revered climbing areas.
Practical details: the approach is short and straightforward, winding through mixed terrain in Murrin Park before arriving at the base of the Pet Wall. Weather considerations lean toward clear, dry days, especially in spring through fall, ensuring optimal friction on the granite slabs. Given the moderate exposure and delicate climbing moves, bringing a light rack complemented by quickdraws for the bolts is essential. A stick clip is highly recommended for the initial moves, making the start safely accessible without unwanted runouts.
Local climbers praise the route for its engaging hand jams and thoughtful sequences, making it a brilliant introduction to harder trad climbs in the area. Careful preparation, paired with respect for the rock’s character and Leclerc’s legacy, will reward climbers with a memorable ascent in an iconic Squamish landscape.
Watch for slick rock on the lower approach after rain, and always use a stick clip on the opening boulder problem to reduce fall risk. The anchor is solid, but ensure your lower-off carabiners are locked before descending.
Stick clip the first bouldery moves to avoid risky falls.
Expect mostly finger-sized cracks for your gear—bring appropriately sized cams.
Approach is well-marked but can be slippery after rain; wear sturdy shoes.
Best climbed in dry conditions between late spring and early fall for optimal friction.
Bring a light rack up to 0.75 inches to cover crack placements. Five bolts protect the traverse and crux sections. A stick clip for the start is strongly advised to avoid difficult early falls. Use locking carabiners on the chain anchor with lower-offs for secure descent.
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