"Amp Left is a compact two-pitch sport climb offering a balance of technical slab moves and steeper sections on solid rock. Tucked into Oak Creek Canyon’s Wet Mountains, it’s ideal for climbers aiming to refine slab technique with reliable protection and straightforward rappels."
Amp Left offers a straightforward yet rewarding two-pitch sport climb set within the rugged landscape of Tanner Dome, Colorado. This route begins with a sharp climb up and slightly right of a compact overhang on the first pitch. Over approximately 100 feet, climbers engage with a sequence of 11 well-spaced bolts that protect a steep slab section just below the small ledge anchor. The crux on this pitch demands precise footwork and a confident approach to slab climbing, where balance and body positioning become essential to conserve energy.
The second pitch, slightly shorter at around 80 feet, shifts the challenge with a more direct ascent. After clipping through about nine bolts, climbers pass a two-bolt intermediate anchor and encounter a split in the route with left, center, and right variations. The center path offers solid, positive holds and manageable angles, providing a contrast to the technical demands of pitch one. While steeper, the second pitch's holds reward controlled moves without demanding maximum power.
Set against the backdrop of Oak Creek Canyon, the surrounding terrain amplifies the experience with layered rock faces and open sky. The approach involves navigating moderate terrain typical of The Wet Mountains region and offers a solid half-day adventure for sport climbers seeking routes with approachable difficulty and clean protection. Rappelling the route involves two rappels directly down the line, making descent simple but requiring careful attention to rope management.
For planning your climb, expect to use 11 to 12 quickdraws, with all bolts and anchors recently inspected as solid. The climb’s 5.9- rating places it within reach for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen slab skills under confident protection. The location’s modest length and pitch count make Amp Left an excellent option for a focused climbing session, paired with exploration of the rugged wilderness around Oak Creek Canyon.
Prepare for variable weather common in southern Colorado by packing layers and plenty of water. The approach terrain features loose scree and forested patches, so solid trekking shoes and careful footing will serve you well. Early morning ascents provide the best light and temperature, with afternoon sun warming the wall but increasing the risk of overheating. With straightforward logistics and a balanced challenge, Amp Left stands as a practical choice for climbers wanting a mix of steep slab climbing and sustained sport pitches.
While protection is solid on Amp Left, pay close attention to your footing on the slab crux of pitch one where slips can be costly. The descent involves two rappels—check rope length and knot ends carefully, and be prepared for loose rock on the approach trail.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the slab, making moves more strenuous.
Bring sturdy hiking shoes for the approach—expect loose scree and uneven trail sections.
Use long slings or cordelette for anchor setups to maintain safety and efficiency in the rappels.
Carry extra water and dress in layers; weather can change quickly in the Wet Mountains.
Plan on 11 to 12 quickdraws for this climb; bolts and anchors are well maintained as of the last inspection. The route is fully bolted with two-bolt anchors at each belay station, supporting smooth transitions between pitches and a clean rappelling experience.
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