American Express climbs the west face of Hemingway Buttress in Joshua Tree, offering a focused 80-foot pitch of sustained traditional crack climbing that challenges both technique and endurance. The initial 15 feet present a defined crux, demanding precise jamming and body positioning before settling into a rhythm that carries you up the remainder of the route. The northeast orientation of the wall means it can hold the chill longer into the day, so on colder mornings, consider circling around to find a sunlit alternative nearby. The crack itself feels alive, urging experienced hands to trust their placement and move steadily, while the granite’s textured surface provides solid friction beneath your feet.

Accessing the route is straightforward from Lost Horse Campground, with a short hike over rocky desert terrain punctuated by hardy shrubs and the distant rustle of Joshua trees in the wind. The granite here wears the desert’s heat and breeze, shaping an environment both harsh and beautiful. Climbers find this route appealing for its manageable length and the chance to refine traditional crack skills in a setting that balances exposure and security.

Gear up with a standard rack, focusing on a range of cams to cover the crack’s varying width. While fixed gear is absent, placements are generally solid if chosen carefully. Expect a modest approach, roughly 20 minutes from the trailhead, mostly flat but with some loose stones to watch for. Descending involves a single 60-meter rappel from anchors at the top, requiring typical rope management skills.

Timing your climb late morning into early afternoon is ideal to catch the wall warming in Joshua Tree’s often brisk desert climate. Summer days can scorch, so plan early starts or late afternoons for safer temperatures. Hydration is critical in this arid environment, and good climbing shoes with sticky rubber will reward you on the granular granite.

Overall, American Express presents a clear, engaging challenge for trad enthusiasts seeking to connect with the desert’s raw edge. It’s a route that invites focused effort but rewards with confident movement and desert panoramas that remind you how elemental climbing can be when paired with the stark elegance of Joshua Tree.