"Alzheimer is a fresh 80-foot trad climb hugging a crack beside a vivid orange face in Quebec’s Charlevoix region. This route challenges climbers with a technical small roof near the top and holds still prone to breakage, demanding careful protection and steady nerves."
Alzheimer presents itself as a striking, compact climb carved into the rugged cliffs of Quebec’s Charlevoix region, just a short distance from the vibrant energy of Quebec City. This single-pitch trad route runs approximately 80 feet up a fresh, orange-hued face that commands attention from the moment you set foot at its base. The line follows a distinct crack to the right of the orange wall, inviting climbers to engage their crack skills amid a setting where nature still asserts its rawness—the rock feels young here, and the holds haven’t fully settled, warning you with subtle hints that some might test your grip and trust.
The crack’s rhythm intensifies as you ascend, punctuated by a small roof just before the top. This feature offers a brief but technical challenge, demanding precision and controlled power to pass through without losing momentum. The route’s difficulty peaks here, reminding climbers that while fresh rock offers good friction, it also requires a cautious approach to avoid surprises. The 5.11a PG13 grade is a tough yet rewarding experience for those comfortable placing traditional protection and eager to push their limits.
Gear-wise, a standard rack covers the protection needs, but with the fresh nature of the route, climbers should be deliberate with placements, focusing on secure, well-fitting pro to safeguard against loose rock or unexpected breaks. The climb’s setting within the wild expanse of Charlevoix places it far from crowded crags, allowing moments to breathe in the cool Canadian air and observe the rugged landscape stretching out below. This area offers more than just physical challenge—it’s an invitation to step into a quieter corner of the climbing world, where the rock still speaks in new tones and each move feels significant.
Planning your day around Alzheimer means considering both the technical demands and the approach. The trail to the base is moderate, winding through forests typical of the Quebecois landscape, rich with pine and birch, their scents sharp in the early morning air. Approaching early in the day takes advantage of softer light and cooler temperatures, making the climb more comfortable in warmer months. As the wall faces west, afternoon sun can heat the rock, intensifying fatigue during harder moves.
With just a single pitch, Alzheimer offers a focused burst of climbing adventure that’s accessible for experienced trad climbers prepared for a fresh route with some uncertainties. Seasoned veterans familiar with the local style will appreciate the subtle nuances of the crack and the deliberate patience required to navigate the tricky roof. Fresh lines like this demand respect, making each ascent as much a mental exercise in care and control as a physical test of skill.
As you descend, a straightforward walk-off trail leads back down, but the still-fresh rock suggests double-checking your anchors and protecting your descent carefully. Safety here is no afterthought; it’s part of respecting the strength and vulnerability stitched into every hold.
Alzheimer is a call to embrace climbing’s evolving nature: new routes with hidden challenges, in a scenic region that rewards curiosity and care equally. For climbers hunting for a concise yet punchy trad experience in Quebec, this crack holds the promise of hands-on engagement with rock that’s alive and not yet tamed.
The rock is newly formed with some unstable holds, especially near the roof. Climbers must place protection carefully and proceed with caution to avoid unexpected breakage. Check anchors thoroughly before descending.
Approach early to avoid afternoon sun heating the west-facing wall.
Use a full standard trad rack emphasizing medium to small cams for crack placements.
Take extra caution on holds near the roof as the rock is fresh and somewhat fragile.
Double-check anchors and protection on descent due to fresh rock potentially shifting.
A standard trad rack is essential for this route. Given the route’s fresh condition and the possibility of holds breaking, carefully placed protection is critical to maintain safety throughout the climb.
Upload your photos of Alzheimer and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.