Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingAltitude Sickness

Altitude Sickness at Lost Horse Wall

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad
roof crack
crack climbing
Joshua Tree
desert
high friction
two-pitch
moderate approach
Length: 250 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Altitude Sickness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Altitude Sickness challenges climbers with a unique roof traverse above a steady start of moderate climbing. Situated on the right side of Lost Horse Wall, this route blends desert grit with technical crack moves, offering a solid test for trad enthusiasts seeking a steady adventure in Joshua Tree."

Altitude Sickness at Lost Horse Wall

Altitude Sickness offers a distinctive blend of challenge and approachability on the right side of Lost Horse Wall, located within the iconic terrain of Joshua Tree National Park. While the climb requires a patient negotiation of some less engaging sections early on, it ultimately rewards those willing to push through with a gritty, technical roof traverse that demands focus and precise footwork. Starting with a moderate opening pitch, the route weaves through a variety of crack sizes and slab moves, putting classic trad skills to the test. The first pitch leans toward an easy 5.6 rating, with a route that threads between gentle ledges and cracks. It’s a necessary primer before reaching the more intense upper portion.

The second pitch thrusts climbers under a prominent roof, where a hand-sized, slightly rough crack slants right, inviting a strategic passage that challenges movement and composure. Here, the rock’s texture heightens the experience, providing friction to secure holds but demanding clean technique. Unlike the more straightforward left variation around the roof—which rates near 5.9 but lacks the adventurous edge—this direct under-roof traverse stands out as the route’s defining section. Experienced climbers will appreciate the opportunity to test their crack climbing and gear placements amid a setting where Joshua Tree’s rugged beauty surrounds every move.

Approaching Altitude Sickness means embracing the desert’s raw character: sun-exposed slabs, scattered brush, and clear views that stretch across rugged boulders and distant ridges. The climbing area feels open, with ample space to set up belays after each pitch, and the final scramble off to the climber’s right provides a straightforward exit to your next desert adventure. Timed well, the route offers morning shade on the upper face, making early starts a smart choice to beat the mid-day heat prevalent in this southern California landscape.

Protection is straightforward: a standard rack covers the necessary spectrum, though carrying a 3-inch cam is recommended to handle the roof crack confidently. The granite edges here are rough but reliable; placements in the roof section require careful judgment but offer solid holds when managed well. This route balances exposure and manageable risk, encouraging climbers to sharpen their gear skills without entering extreme danger.

While Altitude Sickness might not dazzle with nonstop pumpy moves, it embraces a thoughtful pace, pushing climbers to engage with the rock and desert environment steadily. Whether you’re seasoned in crack climbing or looking to step up your trad game in Joshua Tree’s famous landscape, this two-pitch climb invites you to explore its nuances with patience and preparation. Hydration, solid footwear, and sun protection are essential for a safe, enjoyable ascent, as are early starts to maximize comfortable temperatures and light angles.

In essence, Altitude Sickness is a climb of contrasts—the humbling challenge of navigating subtle terrain shifts paired with a rewarding roof passage that speaks to climbers’ technical finesse. It’s a route that draws on the character of Lost Horse Wall itself: a place where the desert’s stern beauty sharpens skill and focus, framed by expansive views and a sense of timeless, open space.

Climber Safety

Be cautious with gear placement under the roof—rock texture is gritty and edges may feel sharp, so double-check cams and nuts. The approach and descent involve loose scree and slabby sections, which can get slick; proceed deliberately and avoid rushing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the upper pitches.

Bring a 3-inch cam for the roof crack; it can make the difference between secure moves and tricky placements.

Hydrate well—Joshua Tree’s desert environment can dehydrate quickly, especially during midday.

The scramble off to the climber's right leads to a safe exit; familiarize yourself with this route before climbing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels accurate, with a notably technical crux under the roof that demands focused crack climbing technique. The first pitch is easier, hovering near 5.6, and can feel like a warm-up before the steeper challenge above. This route stands out compared to nearby variations that offer similar difficulty but lack the roof’s engaging move sequence.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended, with particular emphasis on bringing a 3-inch cam to negotiate the roof crack effectively. The protection placements here are generally solid but require attention in the gritty roof section.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Altitude Sickness and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
roof crack
crack climbing
Joshua Tree
desert
high friction
two-pitch
moderate approach